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Routes in Straight Shooter Wall

5.7 Freak Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Bird Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Captain Crunch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crispy Critters T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Forget Me Knot T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Lazy Fireman, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Orange Clonus T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sidewinder S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Slabba Dabba Doo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Straight Shooter T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Rick Dennison & Daryl Ellis - 1991
Page Views: 2,410 total, 13/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Dec 31, 2002
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

The bolted climb just right of Straight Shooter. A difficult crux (reachy), and off-balance face climbing reminscent of Eldo. Not bad, but there are better things to climb in this area.

Protection

Mostly draws as I recall.

Photos

Midwest Will
ann arbor, MI
 
Midwest Will   ann arbor, MI
 
I'm not sure any of you are doing the climb properly. In some of the pics it looks like climbers are using the thin crack 4-5' right of SS. The new guide book shows it starting behind the bush 10' to the right of SS. The book also states "the loss of a big undercling and the rounding of several other holds has made this route much harder and more sustained." and puts it at 11d. I'm pretty sure I could handle 5.11- but I peeled off between bolt 1 and 2 .. and again at 3-4. May 11, 2017
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.11-
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Really fun, technical route. Climbs like Eldo 11- slab. Would give this 4 stars if it were much longer. Jan 6, 2016
Pitty
Marbach
 
Pitty   Marbach
 
onsighted it today, small things, cool. second bold is not the difficult one to clip more the third and fourth when you are high enough not to deck anymore.... May 7, 2013
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
It's the 4th bolt that's tough to get to now that the flake undercling is broke. I lead this about 4 years ago (?? can't remember exactly) and then it was not real desperate climbing and/or clipping a bolt anywhere along the route but in it's present state it's the move above the 3rd bolt getting into position to clip that 4th bolt that is quite stout and technical. Apr 9, 2012
Russ might be right about the contrived feeling on this one, but it's pretty damn fun, anyway! Since the big hold broke, I guess people are calling this .11c, I'm not sure on that, but it's a tough onsight for sure. A couple of different ways to do it, either way, heads up getting to the 2nd bolt, and don't cheat over to the crack on the right! Jan 26, 2012
Lacie  
I actually led this one last weekend and didn't think it was too reachy, and I am 5 feet even. Maybe that inspires some confidence in the shorter folk. Good climb, makes ya feel like a ballerina. Jan 28, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c
quite good, but seems like going to the second bolt on lead would be pretty spooky. tricky and well worth the TR after SS. Nov 20, 2009
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
  5.11c
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
  5.11c
This is a hard slab climb which involves big moves to small holds. There really isn't much smearing involved as one poster mentions, its more edging. The climb is technical and much more difficult to lead than toprope. It helps significantly if you are flexible! Jan 23, 2008
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.10c/d
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.10c/d
Sorta contrivo and forced. Did it two different ways and neither was all that natural. Drop a TR on it if you are doing Straight Shooter. Feb 14, 2007
Ian Wolfe
Fayetteville, NC
  5.11
Ian Wolfe   Fayetteville, NC
  5.11
Wow. Redefined my notion of "thin", "balancy", and "delicate" climbing. Very fun once you figure out the moves (which took me a while!). Apr 23, 2006
What an awesome climb! Crimpy and balancy and super fun! Shares an anchor with Straight Shooter. Don't leave the S.S. Wall without leading or T.R.'ing this one! If leading: Small gear helpful to protect the moves until the first bolt. Feb 17, 2006