Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,495 total · 9/month
Shared By: J W on Dec 2, 2005
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Visible from below, this is the right hand of the two cracks that lie to the right of Straight Shooter. Approach as per Straight Shooter and then work right along the base of the cliff until you reach a wide chimney with a chockstone in it. Work your way past the chockstone to reach the route.

Pitch 1: Ascend the wide crack to a large ledge.

Descent: Work left and down along the ledge toward Straight Shooter to a pair of old bolts with chains. A single rope rappel brings you back to the base.

Protection

Bring large gear for the route (3" to 5") and some smaller gear for anchor (.5" to 1").

Photos

J W
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
J W   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
This route is incorrectly marked in Jerry's book- this route lies to the RIGHT of the Lazy Fireman- as does Crispy Critters. The chains mentioned above are the rap anchors for the Lazy Fireman. Nov 20, 2009
Thay are sorted incorrectly, too, right here. Jan 26, 2012
Paul Zander
Bern, CH
Paul Zander   Bern, CH
then is there a name for the 5.7 trad route between straight shooter and the lazy fireman? Nov 17, 2014
Ben Townsend  
 
As others have noted, Handren has the description correct but the location wrong -- it's the right-hand of the two cracks on the SE face of the big block, around right of the Lazy Fireman. Rack for the route consisted of #3, 4, and 5 Camalot (if you're comfortable bumping up the #4 a few times, otherwise take two of those). Rather than downclimb to the Lazy Fireman chains, we slung the summit block for a rap anchor; solid, but could use another cordelette for redundancy. Nov 13, 2015