Avg: 2.8 from 41 votes
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches|
|Page Views:||6,601 total · 53/month|
|Shared By:||Darshan Ahluwalia on Jan 23, 2008|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionOrange Clonus is a wonderful traditional multipitch climb. It has a good variety of face and crack climbing with excellent position and exposure. Also a plus, all belays are on huge ledges if done in 4 pitches. The heart of the route is a huge 200 foot widening splitter which may be done in as little as 1 pitch or in as many as 3 which is what the guidebook suggests. The nature of the climbing and the non-trivial descent make for a fun adventure.
P1 (100ft, 10d): The first pitch is the technical crux of the route. Climb the clean varnished dihedral past 5 bolts to a small ledge (10d). Continue up the corner on more fragile rock to a big ledge with a tree (5.7).
P2 (150 ft, 5.5R): Carefully climb the very delicate and runout face for 20 feet until you reach a wide crack which you can chimney inside. Continue until you reach an enormous ledge at the base of a chimney. Belay with a great view.
P3 (80ft, 5.8): Avoid the ugly chimney by going straight up the steep face (5.8) to a ledge system. Walk rightwards across the ledge, battling trees and other desert flora (2nd class). Belay underneath the obvious crack system.
P4 (200ft, 10d): The heart of the route. Climb the widening splitter crack for 200 feet. The pitch ends when the crack ends, at a huge ledge. (Alternatively, this pitch may be broken into three pitches as the guidebook suggests: 60ft of 5.8 fingers to a piton belay in a slot; 60 feet of 10d thin hands to a belay in an alcove below a roof; 80 feet up the 10a hands and fist crack to the big ledge.)
Descent: Three rappels and downclimbing into The Beer and Ice Gully.
Rap 1: Walk across the ledge and rap off a tree.
Rap 2: Downclimb to the right (towards the gully) to another ledge and rap station at a tree.
Rap 3: A short rappel off of another tree will get you to the ground. (This last rap is very cool!)
LocationThe first pitch begins in a very clean left-facing corner on the rounded buttress to the right of the entrance of The Beer and Ice Gully and to the left of the Straight Shooter Wall.
From the Straight Shooter area, walk leftwards contouring the wall. The clean left-facing corner with bolts marks the first pitch.
ProtectionStandard traditional rack to 3.5 inches, doubles or triples of 1.5 to 2.5 inches, and many long slings.
Crux pitches beta:
P1: 5 bolts, single set of .5 to 2 inches
P4: If done in a single pitch, I recommend taking 2 purple, 3-4 green, 2 red, 2 gold, 2 blue, and 1 gray Camalot (and no more).