Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 9,822 total · 49/month
Shared By: Darshan Ahluwalia on Jan 23, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Orange Clonus is a wonderful traditional multipitch climb. It has a good variety of face and crack climbing with excellent position and exposure. Also a plus, all belays are on huge ledges if done in 4 pitches. The heart of the route is a huge 200 foot widening splitter which may be done in as little as 1 pitch or in as many as 3 which is what the guidebook suggests. The nature of the climbing and the non-trivial descent make for a fun adventure.

P1 (100ft, 10d): The first pitch is the technical crux of the route. Climb the clean varnished dihedral past 5 bolts to a small ledge (10d). Continue up the corner on more fragile rock to a big ledge with a tree (5.7).

P2 (150 ft, 5.5R): Carefully climb the very delicate and runout face for 20 feet until you reach a wide crack which you can chimney inside. Continue until you reach an enormous ledge at the base of a chimney. Belay with a great view.

P3 (80ft, 5.8): Avoid the ugly chimney by going straight up the steep face (5.8) to a ledge system. Walk rightwards across the ledge, battling trees and other desert flora (2nd class). Belay underneath the obvious crack system.

P4 (200ft, 10d): The heart of the route. Climb the widening splitter crack for 200 feet. The pitch ends when the crack ends, at a huge ledge. (Alternatively, this pitch may be broken into three pitches as the guidebook suggests: 60ft of 5.8 fingers to a piton belay in a slot; 60 feet of 10d thin hands to a belay in an alcove below a roof; 80 feet up the 10a hands and fist crack to the big ledge.)

Descent: 3-4 rappels and downclimbing into The Beer and Ice Gully.

Rap 1: Walk across the ledge to the back wall and rap off a bolted rappel anchor hidden down in the gully to the left.

Rap 2: Downclimb climber's right for ~10 feet, then head away from the wall into a faint path down the scrub oak gulley toward the walls across the Beer and Ice Gulley. There is a bolted anchor hidden skier's right on the rounded arete at the end of the scrub oak slope.

Rap 3: With an average single rope, you may need to stop and do a short rappel from a slung chock stone before heading down to a larger ledge below with a big tree. With an 80m, you may be able to make it (just barely, check your ropes) down to some easy down climbing to the ledge and can skip this rap. Double ropes will easily make it all the way to the lower ledge.

Rap 4: A short rappel off of a bolted rappel anchor on the wall skier's right will take you all the way down to the Beer and Ice Gulley. 10-15 minutes of bushwhacking/scrambling will bring you back to the base of the route.

Location Suggest change

The first pitch begins in a very clean left-facing corner on the rounded buttress to the right of the entrance of The Beer and Ice Gully and to the left of the Straight Shooter Wall.

From the Straight Shooter area, walk leftwards contouring the wall. The clean left-facing corner with bolts marks the first pitch.

Protection Suggest change

Standard traditional rack to 3.5 inches, doubles or triples of 1.5 to 2.5 inches, and many long slings.

Crux pitches beta:
P1: 5 bolts, single set of .5 to 2 inches
P4: If done in a single pitch, I recommend taking 2 purple, 3-4 green, 2 red, 2 gold, 2 blue, and 1 gray Camalot (and no more).