Avg: 2.8 from 61 votes
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches|
|Page Views:||8,551 total · 52/month|
|Shared By:||Darshan Ahluwalia on Jan 23, 2008|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen|
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
P1 (100ft, 10d): The first pitch is the technical crux of the route. Climb the clean varnished dihedral past 5 bolts to a small ledge (10d). Continue up the corner on more fragile rock to a big ledge with a tree (5.7).
P2 (150 ft, 5.5R): Carefully climb the very delicate and runout face for 20 feet until you reach a wide crack which you can chimney inside. Continue until you reach an enormous ledge at the base of a chimney. Belay with a great view.
P3 (80ft, 5.8): Avoid the ugly chimney by going straight up the steep face (5.8) to a ledge system. Walk rightwards across the ledge, battling trees and other desert flora (2nd class). Belay underneath the obvious crack system.
P4 (200ft, 10d): The heart of the route. Climb the widening splitter crack for 200 feet. The pitch ends when the crack ends, at a huge ledge. (Alternatively, this pitch may be broken into three pitches as the guidebook suggests: 60ft of 5.8 fingers to a piton belay in a slot; 60 feet of 10d thin hands to a belay in an alcove below a roof; 80 feet up the 10a hands and fist crack to the big ledge.)
Descent: Three rappels and downclimbing into The Beer and Ice Gully.
Rap 1: Walk across the ledge and rap off a tree.
Rap 2: Downclimb to the right (towards the gully) to another ledge and rap station at a tree.
Rap 3: A short rappel off of another tree will get you to the ground. (This last rap is very cool!)
From the Straight Shooter area, walk leftwards contouring the wall. The clean left-facing corner with bolts marks the first pitch.
Crux pitches beta:
P1: 5 bolts, single set of .5 to 2 inches
P4: If done in a single pitch, I recommend taking 2 purple, 3-4 green, 2 red, 2 gold, 2 blue, and 1 gray Camalot (and no more).