Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 945 total · 6/month
Shared By: John Wilder on Dec 2, 2005
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This route, along with its neighbor, Captain Crunch, sits just right of Straight Shooter. It is the left hand of the two obvious cracks that are easily visible from the trail. Approach per Straight Shooter and work your way right along the base to the first crack you come to.

Pitch 1: Climb the crack to a large ledge.

Descent: Work left and down on the ledge toward Straight Shooter. On the lip below are two old bolts with chains on them. A single rope rappel gets you back down.

Protection

Bring a good selection of stoppers and cams to 2".

Photos

Ben Townsend  
 
Handren has the description correct, but the location wrong -- it's the left of the two cracks on the SE face of the big block, around right from the Lazy Fireman, an obvious slanting thin crack through black varnish. Mostly thin cams and small wires, could use gear up to 2". Rap from the slung summit block; could use another cordelette for redundancy. Nov 13, 2015
phylp
Upland
 
phylp   Upland
 
Handren I has the location wrong. Handren II describes it correctly. The huge sling around the giant slung block needs to be replaced. Gear anchor is easy to build. But there is also a slung chockstone one tier lower in the back with a rap ring on it. We rapped from that as it’s easier than getting into the chains of the sport route. Oct 11, 2018