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Routes in Straight Shooter Wall

5.7 Freak Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Bird Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Captain Crunch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crispy Critters T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Forget Me Knot T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Lazy Fireman, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Orange Clonus T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sidewinder S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Slabba Dabba Doo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Straight Shooter T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 24,651 total, 148/month
Shared By: Scott Conner on Mar 5, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Splitting the Straight Shooter wall is a perfect little finger crack. This is Straight Shooter.

There are no feet through the crux and if your fingers are on the large side it will feel harder than 5.9 (it did for me). Very short but fun little climb.

Rap with 1 rope.

  • There is a 5.11a right of this route that can be TR'd after SS is led. Thin slab!

Protection

1 set of nuts, double cams .4"-.75, single cams 1"-3.5".
Klaas
Goleta
 
Klaas   Goleta
 
Nice route! For pro we only used cams 0-2 TCU and #.4 -.75 BD in single. More is not needed for this mostly thin fingercrack. Mar 15, 2015
Likeasummerthursday
Las Vegas, Nevada
 
Likeasummerthursday   Las Vegas, Nevada
 
9+ or 10-.

Probably more like 9+. It's thin to good fingers, so bring green aliens plus or minus a yellow Metolius for when it matters. Probably 'minus', so a blue Metolius as a previous poster noted is good to have. Feb 20, 2015
alleyehave
San Diego, CA
  5.9+
alleyehave   San Diego, CA
  5.9+
Awesome climb...save a blue metolius for crux...nuts worked good above the crux too with good stances so don't be afraid to use all your cams down below... Feb 15, 2015
carterrrrrr
Las Vegas
 
carterrrrrr   Las Vegas
 
This thing is fun but felt hard! A good pitch to practice thin crack climbing. Watch out on a hot day Feb 15, 2015
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.9
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Really fun 5.9 finger, ring, and tips locks. Good feet. The rock quality is perfect. I only wish it were longer. Led on 3 pieces and felt quite safe. Jan 12, 2015
Ha! Alex you got sandbagged off a classic climb by a chuckwalla. That'll teach you to hone your desert reptile identification skills... May 16, 2014
Alex Wood
Flagstaff, Arizona
Alex Wood   Flagstaff, Arizona
I tried to climb this route on January 7th, 2014. I was approaching the wall and saw something scurry back in the wider portion of the crack about 8 feet up. I didn't think much of it at the time and maybe thought it was a small lizard. I started to climb, placed a piece and saw a massive tail hanging out of the crack. At first I thought it was a snake and then a gila monster. So I downclimbed and left. Turns out, after looking at the photo I took, it was a chukwalla in the crack. Apparently chuckwallas commonly wedge themselves in cracks when they feel threatened and expand their bodies to "cam" themselves in the cracks. In hindsight, I should have used the chuckwalla as pro by slinging and then I should have kept climbing.... Jan 21, 2014
Ben Wiessner  
 
this pitch has some nice moves for about 5 metres. Don't get your expectations too high :) Dec 3, 2013
Colin Brochard
San Francisco
  5.10a
Colin Brochard   San Francisco
  5.10a
After the lead, I did a couple TR's. Crux is short but that move is 5.10 Nov 7, 2013
Ty Morrison-Heath
Bozeman, MT
 
Ty Morrison-Heath   Bozeman, MT
 
This was a fantastic single pitch route. I don't think I placed anything bigger than a .75 Camalot. Could easily be led on mostly passive pro with a few cams for the crux. Mar 15, 2013
Canon
  5.9+
Canon  
  5.9+
So good! Almost all small gear; I think the crack is #2 TCU sized and it really stays that way. I TR'd the thing; my sausage fingers were screaming for mercy. Dec 8, 2012
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
  5.9+
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
  5.9+
Had a family "sitting" on this one but the wait was worth it. I've got somewhat small digits and the reach between the thin section was no problem since I'm 6'1". I missed the boat on saving a nice green Alien after the crux and ran it out to the anchors (a bit spooky since I suck at climbing cracks). Fairly sustained 5.9 climbing. Beautiful!! Apr 1, 2010
JSH

JSH    
There are feet at the crux. Just sayin'! Jan 11, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9+
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9+
not sure how aiding on cams is going to alter the crack's size...its bullet sandstone- not zion.

obviously cam hooks should be discouraged, but they are not needed anyway.

folks aid this thing regularly- have for years...its one of the few lines in RR that is accessible for learning to aid. Apr 5, 2009
PDF
 
PDF  
 
Good Route, good gear. Feb 21, 2009
jblackattack blac
las vegas, nv
  5.9
jblackattack blac   las vegas, nv
  5.9
Did this route today on a beautiful sunny day. It was a very fun route although short. Definitely a great test piece to see how you are for 5.9-.10a leading Oct 4, 2007
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.9
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.9
Great route! Good pro and fun moves. Works for all finger sizes. My sausages fit well with long reaches between the thin stuff. Feb 14, 2007
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
Second pitch looked somewhat dicey and manky. One of the belay bolts at its base was chopped. Very thin off of the ledge, so hard (impossible) to back up the existing bolt w/o committing. Wouldn't want to fall onto that singe bolt with my partner already on it, and nothing else in... Too bad, could have been better than it looked, but w/o an anchor wasn't worth it. Feb 3, 2007
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
9+ is harder than 10a. ;-)

... and 9++ is harder than 10b! Jan 31, 2007
ashcan
  5.9+
ashcan  
  5.9+
Finger size is key. Crux is short. Super Fun and Safe! What is the difference between 9+ and 10a? Jan 31, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Solid for the grade. Arguably 5.10a. More physically difficult and less tricky than other climbs at that grade range. Jan 12, 2006
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9+
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9+
This is a good line, one of my favorite short routes in Red Rock.

A couple of thoughts for those considering it:

1) As I recall, a single set of cams to 3" works out okay, although a second green alien may come in handy near/after the crux. Good stopper use will eliminate the need for thin cams down low- save those for the crux.

2) This is a really good practice aid climb. Short enough to not take forever, and straight up and protectable enough to aid easily at C1. Also, you can fix the line and rappel. Practice hauling on the other side of the line, etc, etc. Just make sure if you do this, you're not preventing other folks from freeing the line.

3) This is a great route to see if you're ready to tackle .10a's. It used to be a .10, back in the day, but it really is more like .9+. However, if you can get on this and pull through without too much trouble, I'd go hop on a .10 or two- you're likely ready! Nov 19, 2005