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Routes in Straight Shooter Wall

5.7 Freak Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Bird Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Captain Crunch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crispy Critters T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Forget Me Knot T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Lazy Fireman, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Orange Clonus T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sidewinder S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Slabba Dabba Doo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Straight Shooter T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Mike Tupper, 1985
Page Views: 523 total, 7/month
Shared By: Cunning Linguist on Jan 26, 2012
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Another tough .11 face/slab route to end-cap Slabba Dabba Doo and Sidewinder. Starts in a pin/tiny RP seam just left of S.D.D., the ASCA replaced bolt is a reddish orange, helps distinguish this one from its neighbor to the right. Thin, techy climbing on the lower wall is followed by a clipped bolt and a traverse to the anchor of Straight Shooter, or continuing up Bird Crack on gear to an anchor. The climbing on the upper crack is friable and not trivial, micro wires mandatory.

Location

25 feet left of Straight Shooter

Protection

Micro wires, TCUs, a couple of mid-sized cams.

Photos

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Both this and Slabba Dabba Doo are pretty heinous for the grades they've been given. Interesting climbing, though-just R rated and cruxy. I emailed Mike Tupper for info on whether the original FA of this one went up Bird Crack or not, I'll post up when I hear from him. Jan 26, 2012