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Routes in Magic Bus

Blonde Dwarf T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Electric Koolaid S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ken Queasy T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Neon Sunset S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Queasy Sunrise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Technicolor Sunrise S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Zipperhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: K. Pogue, C. Dodson, '93
Page Views: 7,812 total · 41/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 21, 2002
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This route is the central route up the wall - the second from the left of the fully bolted lines at Magic Bus. Despite the fact that I generally enjoy trad routes more, I found this to be one of the better lines at the cliff, despite being a little over-bolted. Unlike a few of its neighbors, the line is continuous and straight--aesthetic and nice. Perhaps one of the good reasons to hit this cliff on a winter morning. It's also a good warm up.

Climb up the bolted line passing 9 bolts to the anchor up top. At one time the bolt hangers were red, and still may well be.

Protection

A set of 11 draws. (9 bolts + anchor)
Casey Flynn
Boulder, CO
  5.7
Casey Flynn   Boulder, CO
  5.7
The Brock and McMillan Guide call this a 5 star classic. I thought it was way overbolted and not that great. A little too much clipping for my liking. Better over than under though, I guess Apr 12, 2007
gilbert.2003
Burke, VA
  5.7+
gilbert.2003   Burke, VA
  5.7+
A bit over bolted but gotta like it when you get it. Apr 15, 2007
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Fun climb and great warm-up. As this was my first sport lead in RR, I was rather thankful for all the bolts. ;-) May 19, 2007
Christine Gal
henderson, nv
Christine Gal   henderson, nv
wow -- don't think I've been on a route with so many bolts in such a short ascend, I nearly z-clipped a couple times... you definitely feel protected on this route.

really fun, warm up climb. someone new on lead might feel right arm getting a little pumped by half way up. it does seem longer than 45' though, especially if you compare it to Technicolor Sunrise.

last links on anchor are getting worn out -- someone needs to cut those two off and be all set with the remaining anchor links. Mar 1, 2009
Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Lluis Penalver-Aguila   Cambridge, Massachusetts
9 bolts spaced 5 feet apart or so. The holds are positive all the way up, with a a few high steps and side pulls for the shorter climber. Apr 13, 2009
billdlee
las vegas
 
billdlee   las vegas
 
This is really a fun lead. The holds were worn smooth, but still positive. By far the best climb on this wall. Apr 29, 2009
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
On 3/3/10, the ASCA replaced 6 pro bolts and 2 anchor bolts with 1/2" x 2.75" SS 5-piece bolts, and equipped the new anchor with mussy hooks. The two remaining original bolts are still in good shape.

also, i would note that this is not the left-most of the bolted routes, but rather, the central line up the cliff face. the left most is a 5.9 that ascends the left hand side of the wall. Mar 4, 2010
Josh Cameron
California
  5.8-
Josh Cameron   California
  5.8-
An excellent first lead. Just be careful getting to that first bolt; it wouldn't be a clean landing. Jul 4, 2011
Climbed this route on 11/28/15. The left bolt on the anchor is loose and has about 2mm of play in each direction. Be careful and be redundant cleaning this route until the left bolt is replaced. Dec 3, 2015
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Despite the rave reviews, not a great route. Mostly due to the bolting. It's essentially a bolt ladder. At one point you can clip three bolts from a single stance. Also, it's not even a straight bolt ladder. Bolts wander all over the place, do not follow the line, and create significant drag. The route was fun but hard to enjoy with the annoying bolt placements. Dec 25, 2015
James Cranston
Boulder, CO
  5.8
James Cranston   Boulder, CO
  5.8
Cannot rave about this thing enough. Ventured up here for our rest day (the approach SUCKS!) to do the 8s (the strip downtown wasn't appealing to us, and had a bum knee so couldn't really go hiking!) ha. This climb is FANTASTIC! An absolute joy ride. Weather was 40 some degrees in December, but this crag gets hella sun and it kind of sits on top of the rock so it felt extremely pleasant around mid-day, so I didn't need any layers! Ran laps on it. This is honestly just very enjoyable movement on great sandstone with a hell of a view at a really great crag for Red Rock. You can *for sure* skip bolts on it if you're low on QDs or feeling lazy. I can see this being a good rock climb to learn how to sport climb on, since there are no real run outs and every move has options for both feet and hands. This competes with a 5.8 at Maple Canyon (Key Lime Sky at Oxygen Wall, Right Fork) for my favorite at the grade... Enjoy! Jan 15, 2016
Matt Thomsen  
 
Climbed this 10-03-16. Only one anchor bolt with a hook. The bolt looks good, but weird to have a well trafficked climb like this with a messed up anchor. Good climb, but not any better then the other climbs on the wall. Oct 3, 2016
Alex Costakis
Denver, CO
 
Alex Costakis   Denver, CO
 
Climbed this on 10/8/2016, anchor is one bolt with a hook. There is a hole where the second bolt used to be, and two more holes above that where the previous anchor was. Three missing bolts didn't instill a lot of confidence, so I left a locker on the last bolt before the anchor and lowered from both. Might still be up there. The setting makes it feel more exposed than other single pitch routes nearby. Oct 17, 2016
12/14/2016 ....The Southen Neveda Climbers Coalition with support from ASCA preformed some route maintenance on Neon Sunset. The missing left anchor bolt was added back with a Fixe SS 3/8 x 6 1/2 Glue-In Bolt and was then equipped new quicklinks and rap rings. Dec 14, 2016

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