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Routes in Magic Bus

Blonde Dwarf T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Electric Koolaid S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ken Queasy T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Neon Sunset S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Queasy Sunrise S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Technicolor Sunrise S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Zipperhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: T. & D. Swain, 1993
Page Views: 3,207 total · 17/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 21, 2002 with updates from JSH
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

To find this route first locate Neon Sunset, as described on this site.

From Neon Sunset, walk 3 meters right to a set of thin cracks tending up and right (Zipperhead) then 2 more meters to the left edge of a pyramid like feature.

Climb up on this then straight up the wall passing (5 bolts, now that it was retrobolted...) to reach a fixed anchor. The line is pretty straight and continuous and is a nice climb.

According to the Swain book, this route will take small wires at the base, but I don't recall inspiring protection and instead just bouldered it out with a spot from my belayer. This route might not be the best for a blooming leader.
Again, the retrobolts make the Swain book advice and former comments on that irrelevant but for historical context and ethical considerations. It appears that gear is not needed anymore.

Protection

A light rack of small gear can supplement the 4 bolts on this climb, but not terribly well. Expect a minor runout either way.

Photos

M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Bolts appear to be in need of replacement. Apr 1, 2007
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Another fun climb! Lead Neon Sunset first then go for the runouts on this one. Woo Hoo! May 19, 2007
Christine Gal
henderson, nv
Christine Gal   henderson, nv
lead Neon Sunset first, this was an enjoyable (and much shorter) lead to follow it... has some great bomber holds. really nice for someone just starting to lead Mar 1, 2009
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
On 3/3/10, the ASCA replaced 5 pro bolts and 2 anchor bolts on this climb with 1/2" x 2.75" SS 5-piece bolts. The original first pro bolt can be found slightly right to the climb in the scoop- an ancient 3/8" button head. The second bolt was adjusted somewhat higher to accommodate the first bolts more logical location. The anchor has also been equipped with mussy hooks. Mar 4, 2010
Josh Cameron
California
  5.8
Josh Cameron   California
  5.8
Seems like someone added a fifth bolt to help protect the start. Fun climbing and seemed slightly easier than "Neon Sunset." Not runout, but probably not the best lead for someone breaking into the grade. Jan 12, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
Actually, we moved the first bolt from the alcove to the right onto the face, where people actually start the route. Jan 12, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
really great little climb, well worth doing. get a spot for the start, but its not too bad getting to the first bolt. Feb 13, 2011
Mtnfly
El Segundo, Ca
  5.8
Mtnfly   El Segundo, Ca
  5.8
Easier than neon sunset. First bolt felt just as high as other bolts on this wall. Feb 5, 2013
I would say easier than neon sunset. Maybe 5.7 after the first bolt. Possible to stick clip though if you feel the need. Super fun face climbing all and all and yes, a bit run out in the middle not be though and very safe. Jan 16, 2014
This route has ASCA hardware on the anchor. Jul 5, 2017

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