Technicolor Sunrise
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 36.15337, -115.43547 |
| FA: | Todd Swain and Donette Swain, Dec 1993 |
| Page Views: | 5,065 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Dec 21, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
To find this route first locate Neon Sunset, as described on this site.
From Neon Sunset, walk 3 meters right to a set of thin cracks tending up and right (Zipperhead) then 2 more meters to the left edge of a pyramid like feature.
Climb up on this then straight up the wall passing (5 bolts, now that it was retrobolted...) to reach a fixed anchor. The line is pretty straight and continuous and is a nice climb.
According to the Swain book, this route will take small wires at the base, but I don't recall inspiring protection and instead just bouldered it out with a spot from my belayer. This route might not be the best for a blooming leader.
Again, the retrobolts make the Swain book advice and former comments on that irrelevant but for historical context and ethical considerations. It appears that gear is not needed anymore.



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