Type: Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: T. & D. Swain, 1993
Page Views: 4,827 total · 18/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 21, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Aaron Mc

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

To find this route first locate Neon Sunset, as described on this site.

From Neon Sunset, walk 3 meters right to a set of thin cracks tending up and right (Zipperhead) then 2 more meters to the left edge of a pyramid like feature.

Climb up on this then straight up the wall passing (5 bolts, now that it was retrobolted...) to reach a fixed anchor. The line is pretty straight and continuous and is a nice climb.

According to the Swain book, this route will take small wires at the base, but I don't recall inspiring protection and instead just bouldered it out with a spot from my belayer. This route might not be the best for a blooming leader.
Again, the retrobolts make the Swain book advice and former comments on that irrelevant but for historical context and ethical considerations. It appears that gear is not needed anymore.

Protection Suggest change

A light rack of small gear can supplement the 4 bolts on this climb, but not terribly well. Expect a minor runout either way.