Avg: 2.2 from 201 votes
Routes in Magic Bus
|Type:||Sport, 70 ft|
|FA:||T. & D. Swain, 1993|
|Page Views:||2,944 total, 16/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Dec 21, 2002|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionTo find this route first locate Neon Sunset, as described on this site.
From Neon Sunset, walk 3 meters right to a set of thin cracks tending up and right (Zipperhead) then 2 more meters to the left edge of a pyramid like feature.
Climb up on this then straight up the wall passing (5 bolts, now that it was retrobolted...) to reach a fixed anchor. The line is pretty straight and continuous and is a nice climb.
According to the Swain book, this route will take small wires at the base, but I don't recall inspiring protection and instead just bouldered it out with a spot from my belayer. This route might not be the best for a blooming leader.
Again, the retrobolts make the Swain book advice and former comments on that irrelevant but for historical context and ethical considerations. It appears that gear is not needed anymore.