Connect with Facebook
Routes in Magic Bus
|
Blonde Dwarf T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
Electric Koolaid S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Ken Queasy T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
|
|
Neon Sunset S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Queasy Sunrise S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Technicolor Sunrise S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
|
|
Zipperhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | T. & D. Swain, 1993 |
| Page Views: | 2,441 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Dec 21, 2002 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Go to the far right side of the Magic Bus Crag. This climb starts some small distance left of the right-hand end, in some dark, chunky rock.
Climb up an awkward start (perhaps 5.9?) and reach the first bolt. Then up and to a second bolt before angling up and left to join Technicolor Sunrise, clipping the final bolt and anchors of that route. The line is note as nice nor as continuous as the others at the cliff, and felt awkward at the bottom.
Like its neighbor, the Swain book suggests that a TCU or small wires will assist at the base, but I don't recall inspiring protection - I remember awkwardly trying to place a piece that wasn't great in the end anyway. I'd advise to just boulder it out to the first bolt and would not advise this as a good route for a blooming leader.
Climb up an awkward start (perhaps 5.9?) and reach the first bolt. Then up and to a second bolt before angling up and left to join Technicolor Sunrise, clipping the final bolt and anchors of that route. The line is note as nice nor as continuous as the others at the cliff, and felt awkward at the bottom.
Like its neighbor, the Swain book suggests that a TCU or small wires will assist at the base, but I don't recall inspiring protection - I remember awkwardly trying to place a piece that wasn't great in the end anyway. I'd advise to just boulder it out to the first bolt and would not advise this as a good route for a blooming leader.
6 Comments