All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Second Pullout… > Magic Bus

Ken Queasy

Name: Ken Queasy
Rating: 1.7

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13

Routes in Magic Bus

L › R R › L A › Z

	Blonde Dwarf T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Electric Koolaid S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Ken Queasy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Magic Bus \| 2332 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Neon Sunset S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Queasy Sunrise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Technicolor Sunrise S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

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Type:	Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
GPS:	36.15337, -115.43547
FA:	Todd Swain and Donette Swain, Dec 1993
Page Views:	2,801 total · 10/month
Shared By:	Tony B on Dec 21, 2002
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

Go to the far right side of the Magic Bus Crag. This climb starts some small distance left of the right-hand end, in some dark, chunky rock.

Climb up an awkward start (perhaps 5.9?) and reach the first bolt. Then up and to a second bolt before angling up and left to join Technicolor Sunrise, clipping the final bolt and anchors of that route. The line is note as nice nor as continuous as the others at the cliff, and felt awkward at the bottom.

Like its neighbor, the Swain book suggests that a TCU or small wires will assist at the base, but I don't recall inspiring protection - I remember awkwardly trying to place a piece that wasn't great in the end anyway. I'd advise to just boulder it out to the first bolt and would not advise this as a good route for a blooming leader.