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Routes in Magic Bus

Blonde Dwarf T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Electric Koolaid S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ken Queasy T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Neon Sunset S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Queasy Sunrise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Technicolor Sunrise S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Zipperhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
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Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: T. & D. Swain, 1993
Page Views: 1,692 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 21, 2002
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Go to the far right side of the Magic Bus Crag. This climb starts some small distance left of the right-hand end, in some dark, chunky rock.

Climb up an awkward start (perhaps 5.9?) and reach the first bolt. Then up and to a second bolt before angling up and left to join Technicolor Sunrise, clipping the final bolt and anchors of that route. The line is note as nice nor as continuous as the others at the cliff, and felt awkward at the bottom.

Like its neighbor, the Swain book suggests that a TCU or small wires will assist at the base, but I don't recall inspiring protection - I remember awkwardly trying to place a piece that wasn't great in the end anyway. I'd advise to just boulder it out to the first bolt and would not advise this as a good route for a blooming leader.

Protection

A light rack of small gear can supplement the 3 bolts on this climb, but not terribly well. Expect a minor runout either way.

Photos

Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
This was a very fun route and the runout wasn't so bad (but then, I didn't lead it, hee hee). Just wish it was more sustained. My friend's piece was bomb but the first bolt still made for the possibility of a near-groundfall. Clear sailing after that. May 19, 2007
rex parker
las vegas n.v
rex parker   las vegas n.v
i think the potential is bad for not placing the small nut or stopper before the first bolt, because a ground fall could hurt the belayer and you could fall substantially farther because of the cliff to the right of the belay stance, dont run this one out to the first bolt place that piece, cause the rock is kinda sketchy untill the bolt. May 21, 2007
Most of the fun on this route is getting past the black varnished section, which is the crux of the climb. My friends and I toproped it and focused just on that section. An anchor has been set up for that purpose, and the anchor can be easily reached with a 6 foot traverse from the anchor for Technicolor Sunrise. Jan 21, 2009
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8 PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8 PG13
On 3/3/10, the ASCA replaced three pro bolts and two anchor bolts with 1/2" x 2.75" SS 5-piece bolts. The anchor has also been equipped with mussy hooks.

Note: This route now has its own anchor (which was in place before we rebolted the crag- this anchor has been upgraded and placed in better rock). Mar 4, 2010
Josh Cameron
California
  5.8 PG13
Josh Cameron   California
  5.8 PG13
You can place a bomber and slightly tight #2 C4 in the first horizontal crack. This will help you to get up to that first bolt, but if you fell clipping it wouldn't keep you off the ground.

Also, the 2nd bolt might be in groundfall territory, but once you pass that first bolt the climbing eases a good amount. Jan 12, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8 PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8 PG13
If you're short, you'll really want gear in that horizontal before you commit to going for the first bolt, as the crux guards it. I was able to just stand up and clip the bolt at 5'10", no biggie.

The second bolt wouldnt be groundfall with a tight belay, but it'd be close enough to be scary.

Lead safe on this one, folks. Feb 13, 2011

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