Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: T. & D. Swain, 1993
Page Views: 2,586 total · 10/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 21, 2002
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Aaron Mc

You & This Route


94 Opinions
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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Go to the far right side of the Magic Bus Crag. This climb starts some small distance left of the right-hand end, in some dark, chunky rock.

Climb up an awkward start (perhaps 5.9?) and reach the first bolt. Then up and to a second bolt before angling up and left to join Technicolor Sunrise, clipping the final bolt and anchors of that route. The line is note as nice nor as continuous as the others at the cliff, and felt awkward at the bottom.

Like its neighbor, the Swain book suggests that a TCU or small wires will assist at the base, but I don't recall inspiring protection - I remember awkwardly trying to place a piece that wasn't great in the end anyway. I'd advise to just boulder it out to the first bolt and would not advise this as a good route for a blooming leader.

Protection Suggest change

A light rack of small gear can supplement the 3 bolts on this climb, but not terribly well. Expect a minor runout either way.

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