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Routes in Magic Bus

Blonde Dwarf T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Electric Koolaid S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ken Queasy T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Neon Sunset S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Queasy Sunrise S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Technicolor Sunrise S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Zipperhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: D. & T. Swain on TR, '94. Retrobolted.
Page Views: 3,187 total, 17/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 21, 2002
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This route climbs the left hand edge of the Magic Bus wall. Although there is nothing really wrong with the route, it's not quite as good as others on the cliff, having rock of less quality and being a little shorter.Climb the now-bolted line at the left edge of the crag to reach the anchors up and right, above Blonde Dwarf.

Protection

A set or draws or a TR.
James Cranston
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
James Cranston   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Thin! A little spacey between bolts! Keeps you on your toes and thinking (fun, fun, fun!). 5.9 seems a little stout, but 5.10 would seem too soft. Whatever, it's great. I stick clipped #1. Jan 15, 2016
Chris D
the couch
 
Chris D   the couch
 
Handren must have been confused when he gave three stars to Neon Sunset and only one to this route. I think he meant to do it the other way around. This is a much better route, though the finish is odd for a sport route.

Also, if this is 5.9+, then the 5.9+ routes in the Black Corridor are 11a. No single move harder than 5.8. Feb 20, 2012
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.9
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.9
My favorite climb here. Aside from "Neon Sunset," this route features the most continuous climbing. It felt like a solid 5.9 to me, but probably nothing harder. Jan 12, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9+
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9+
On 3/3/10, the ASCA replaced the anchors on this route with two 1/2" x 2.75" SS 5-piece bolts and mussy hooks. Pro bolts are all in great shape and did not need replacements. Mar 4, 2010
Cory Harelson
Boise, ID
  5.9
Cory Harelson   Boise, ID
  5.9
My favorite route on the Magic Bus. It takes a little more thought than it's neighbors . . . Jan 25, 2010
billdlee
las vegas
 
billdlee   las vegas
 
You can do the last section going left or to the right. Right being straight up. The left was really too easy, but if you go straight up which is to the right of the last clip, the climb was a lot more fun and a tad harder. I tried both ways and I really enjoyed going rt more than going left. FYI, most of the chalk is to the left of the last clip. Apr 29, 2009
Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Lluis Penalver-Aguila   Cambridge, Massachusetts
Stay left from the start up through bolt 4. Move rightat the 4th bolt to the 5th bolt then straight up to the anchors. A bit more strenuous then Neon Sunset, but positive holds throughout. As a TR, we left the 4th bolt clipped as a directional. Apr 13, 2009
Ron Graham
5.9+
Ron Graham  
5.9+
If you toprope this route, you might want to leave in some directional quickdraws on the top couple of bolts. Otherwise, climbers will have a difficult time staying on route. The direct line to the anchor is about a grade more difficult than the line following the bolts.

This is a very fun route that starts out easy on big holds and gets plenty challenging with crimpers and side pulls at the top! Jan 21, 2009
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
A great climb on positive holds. Less travelled than the easier sport routes on this wall. May 19, 2007
10b4me
  5.9
10b4me  
  5.9
I found the route finding a little tricky. Climbiing on the left side of the bolts is easier than climbing on the right side. Having said that, there is no way this route is a 9+. I rate it a 9 or 9-. Still found the route to be fun. Mar 2, 2004