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Routes in Magic Bus

Blonde Dwarf T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Electric Koolaid S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ken Queasy T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Neon Sunset S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Queasy Sunrise S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Technicolor Sunrise S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Zipperhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: N. Nordblom, P VanBetten, '88. bolts added in '93
Page Views: 1,993 total, 11/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 21, 2002
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This route climbs the obvious crack starting near the left hand edge of the Magic Bus wall. The gear at the bottom might be a little tricky to place, but seemed OK to me. Like it's neighbor, there is nothing really wrong with the route, but it's broken nature (not a singular line) makes it not quite as good as others on the cliff, having rock of less quality and being a little shorter.Climb up the crack up and right to the face, then up and left on the face past two bolts to a fixed rap anchor.

Protection

A set or draws and a light rack, or a TR.
Edward Pyune
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
Edward Pyune   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
As others have stated, this is certainly no PG-13 climb. The crack has great pro (didn't need anything more than a .5 camalot, although I think I recall a spot for a .75) and the crux moves are protected with bolts. I feel this is worth more than 2 stars Apr 7, 2017
Yeah no chance this is PG13. Maybe an extra bolt was added? The crack eats up gear, but is really chill either way. Mar 1, 2016
Mark Wright
Minneapolis, MN
  5.9
Mark Wright   Minneapolis, MN
  5.9
The crack was easy to protect with small cams and nuts, and the face at the top is well bolted. So it may have been PG at one time, but now it seems pretty safe to me... and I'm a conservative old guy...:-) May 2, 2013
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.9
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.9
The crack was more like face climbing and using the crack for pro with an occasioanl finger jam, though my fingers may be too big to use the crack. I felt the face climbing at the top was harder than "Electric Koolaid." Jan 12, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
On 3/3/10, the ASCA replaced two pro bolts and the anchor bolts shared with Electric Koolaid with 1/2" x 2.75" SS 5-piece bolts. The anchors are now equipped with mussy hooks. Mar 4, 2010
Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Lluis Penalver-Aguila   Cambridge, Massachusetts
Follow the right leaning crack until it peters out in the dish. Up the dish and to the left to clip two bolts and end at the anchors to the left. The crux is in the dish with a high step on low handholds (shorter climber) with a reach to a very positive hold above. Strenuous at the crack only. Apr 13, 2009
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
I think you guys are right for the most part - seemed pretty easy. But the crux up high was pretty delicate. Maybe a one move wonder? Still, I found the climb to be thoroughly enjoyable. May 19, 2007
10b4me  
I agree, it is more of a 5.8+ climb. Still, I'll take any of the climbs on the Magic Bus wall. Mar 6, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
For the record, I think all of the grades in book for the area are 'easy.' For that double-digit end of the scale, perhaps 3 letter grades easier than rated. Single-digit-difficulty routes seem to be over-graded by an average of almost full number. There are of course exceptions and even sandbags, but I am speaking generally.

I don't think it is very S either. I could see giving it PG-13 because the gear at the bottom (before the bolts) might be a little tricky to place for a newbie. Feb 26, 2004
L. Hamilton
  5.8+
L. Hamilton  
  5.8+
Felt easier than the 5.9 to its left. The protection (a few nuts, plus the bolts) seemed fine. A nice climb, but not 5.10 s. Feb 25, 2004