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Routes in Magic Bus
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Blonde Dwarf T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Electric Koolaid S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ken Queasy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Magic Bus | 2332 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Neon Sunset S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Queasy Sunrise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Technicolor Sunrise S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 36.15337, -115.43547 |
| FA: | Nick Nordblom and Paul Van Betten, 1988 |
| Page Views: | 3,569 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Dec 21, 2002 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste
Details
WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
This route climbs the obvious crack starting near the left hand edge of the Magic Bus wall. The gear at the bottom might be a little tricky to place, but seemed OK to me. Like it's neighbor, there is nothing really wrong with the route, but it's broken nature (not a singular line) makes it not quite as good as others on the cliff, having rock of less quality and being a little shorter.Climb up the crack up and right to the face, then up and left on the face past two bolts to a fixed rap anchor.
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