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Routes in Magic Bus
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Blonde Dwarf T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Electric Koolaid S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ken Queasy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Magic Bus | 2332 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Neon Sunset S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Queasy Sunrise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Technicolor Sunrise S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 36.15337, -115.43547 |
| FA: | Nick Nordblom and Paul Van Betten, 1988 |
| Page Views: | 3,482 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Dec 21, 2002 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This route climbs the obvious crack starting near the left hand edge of the Magic Bus wall. The gear at the bottom might be a little tricky to place, but seemed OK to me. Like it's neighbor, there is nothing really wrong with the route, but it's broken nature (not a singular line) makes it not quite as good as others on the cliff, having rock of less quality and being a little shorter.Climb up the crack up and right to the face, then up and left on the face past two bolts to a fixed rap anchor.
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