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Routes in Magic Bus

Blonde Dwarf T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Electric Koolaid S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ken Queasy T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Neon Sunset S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Queasy Sunrise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Technicolor Sunrise S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Zipperhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

The Magic Bus is a gigantic boulder directly across from the parking lot at the second pullout. The routes range from 5.8 to 5.10-. This is a popular area for people just beginning to lead.

[Reprinted with permission from Jed Botsford, Climbing Ranger - RRCNCA].

Getting There

To approach the Magic Bus, follow the trail from the parking lot until it forks, take the right fork and then take the next left following the trail to the wash. Walk up canyon for about 50 yards. Turn up the second side canyon to your right. Follow the side canyon up until it tops out and then continue up the slabs. When you reach the top of the slabs, the Magic Bus will be to your right.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Magic Bus

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 293
Neon Sunset
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 220
Technicolor Sunrise
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 121
Blonde Dwarf
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 62
Queasy Sunrise
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 196
Electric Koolaid
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Neon Sunset
 293
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Technicolor Sunrise
 220
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Sport
Blonde Dwarf
 121
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Queasy Sunrise
 62
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Electric Koolaid
 196
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Magic Bus »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
The day I went to magic Bus was a cold and early winter morning. The sun was on the cliff pretty strongly, and the light and scenery from there were awesome, particularly of the sun shining down on the low clouds and snow hanging in the tall walls across the valley. Remarkably, we had the cliff to ourselves and found it to be a great place to go warm up for our Red Rocks vacation, climbing all of the routes there in just a few hours. It's a good 1/2 day wall. Feb 20, 2004
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
On 3/3/10- the ASCA replaced 23 pro bolts and 8 anchor bolts, and equipped all the new anchors with mussy hooks. See individual routes for details. Mar 4, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
This is a very nice crag, and Im kind of bummed I hadnt been here before to climb. All the routes are good fun with fun movement. The lot are better than anything at the grade at Panty Wall or the Corridor... Feb 13, 2011
Sam Elander
Bullhead City, AZ
Sam Elander   Bullhead City, AZ
ATTENTION: If you find/found a engagement ring, with intricate etchings in it, this past weekend, please let me know at 501-827-2946 or selander@harding.edu !
It would likely be near the base of a route. Or in the 2nd pullout parking.. Apr 6, 2018

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