Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Little Hunk - NE Face (Right)

Blue Diamond (aka Shock to the System) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blues Traveller T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cashews Will Be Eaten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Changes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Disrythmia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Electralux T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Electric Blue S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flower Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Functional Analysis TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Incandescent S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Deal S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Potato Head T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Power Drop T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Power Failure T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Power Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rad Nad S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Smear Factor S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Team Scumbag T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
ZZZZZ T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
ZZZZZ Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: 1984 Dave Bruckman et al
Page Views: 391 total, 3/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Oct 12, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art. Details

Description

Two obvious, vertical cracks will be seen on the Northeast face, right. Climb these cracks to the top. We TR'd this route, and I'm glad we did. The pro in the upper crack is PG with a runout. I suggest you TR it, and check it out before doing a lead. As I rapped it, I noted some problems setting pro in the crux area; and a fall there could be very serious indeed.

Protection

standard rack

Photos

Peter Valchev
Truckee, CA
  5.10c/d R
Peter Valchev   Truckee, CA
  5.10c/d R
This isn't any scarier to lead than many other 5.10+ at JTree. There are at least 2 solid pieces to keep you off the ground, and probably about 8 feet gap to the next one (in a horizontal). It's a bit heady to climb above your gear in a flaring crack like this, sure, but not really deserving of this description downgrading to a toprope (I hadn't climbed much in a year, and led this based on the star rating in the guidebook finding it pretty exciting). Anyway, if you are in the area check it out... it's just as fun and maybe safer than the face routes nearby (like ZZZZ), and you can always bail off a piece of gear and rap to retrieve it. Mar 6, 2016