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Routes in Little Hunk - NE Face (Right)

Blue Diamond (aka Shock to the System) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blues Traveller T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cashews Will Be Eaten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Changes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Disrythmia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Electralux T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Electric Blue S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Flower Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Functional Analysis TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Incandescent S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Deal S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Potato Head T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Power Drop T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Power Failure T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Power Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rad Nad S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Smear Factor S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Team Scumbag T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
ZZZZZ T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
ZZZZZ Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Randy Vogel, Charles Cole & Marjorie Shovlin, October 1983
Page Views: 2,515 total · 13/month
Shared By: Randy on Nov 25, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art. Details

Description

This fun face route is on excellent rock near the left side of the right end of the East Face of Little Hunk. It lies just left of Electric Blue (5.11c).

Begin off a boulder and head up and right on face, then straight up past 2 bolts to a small horizontal break (gear possible here). Finish up and left reaching a large ledge.

This route is a bit run out, but nothing that a calm head won't solve.

Protection

Thin to 2 inches. 2 bolt anchor/rap or easy walk-off to right.

Photos

I just couldn't believe it, but I think this classic is sandbagged a bit. Imagine that and at JT too. Anyone else feel abused by this route. Maybe I was lost and only thought I was on "Little Hunk". Oct 23, 2003
Murf  
Did this route as recently as last year and don't remember any bolted anchor for it. There is an anchor to the climbers left, but it seems too "offline" to me. I've always belayed off gear. Oct 24, 2003
From Randy's description, I wasn't on route. Both of us, Karen Briggs and myself, studied the face and were sure we were in the right spot. There were four bolts, and I assumed that two had been added over the years. I tried to get by the second bolt for at least an hour--frustrating and futile. Try again to find the correct route. Nov 1, 2003
Murf  
As you look at the face above, there is a "mini-bandshell" ledge that has anchors for Electric Blue, a four bolt .11c. RIGHT of that are two new bolted routes. ZZZZZ starts LEFT of Electric Blue, and just touches the ledge on its left end. You'll know if you are on ZZZZZ, you are quite high before clipping the first bolt. Nov 3, 2003
C Miller
CA
  5.9 PG13
C Miller   CA  
  5.9 PG13
An excellent route for those not leading at their limit. Great rock, fun movement and seldom any traffic on this one. Make sure you feel comfortable a ways out when doing this one - good practice for Suicide Rock or the like. Three stars out of five. Feb 23, 2005
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Engaging and enjoyable. Definitely runout between the 1st and 2nd bolt, but the moves are only 5.8ish - though they are steep and a touch insecure. The technical crux comes after the 2nd bolt, but you are only a a few feet beyond the bolt. You can sling a horn getting to the 1st bolt. At the ledge, gear is available (I placed some TCUs with long slings). Then move left (5.8ish again) and then head straight up. I thought about moving left to the anchors above the 10d, but they are quite a ways left and it seemed more natural (and easier) to head straight up. Apr 19, 2008
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.9 R
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.9 R
Excellent route with intricate and wonderful moves and a big feel - certainly a JT classic. Cam placement in the diagonal crack just up from the start and left of where you step over, and as Andy says there's a great jug that would take a thin sling. Jan 30, 2011
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
I led this route years ago and at the time it was near my limit; that's what made it so great!! A memorable and very classic route. Get on it! Jan 7, 2014
Tradiban  
 
Good moves on good rock but not classic. Why the hype? May 4, 2016
Bob Gaines
  5.9 PG13
Bob Gaines  
  5.9 PG13
I'd say if you add the direct start you've got yourself a pretty classic pitch- one of my favorites! May 7, 2016
Stone Adventures
Joshua Tree, CA
Stone Adventures   Joshua Tree, CA
The scariest part were the crux moves just after clipping the last bolt. The bolt looks terrible, and if it blows you're done for... The runouts weren't scary at all. Feb 15, 2017

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