Avg: 3.3 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft|
|FA:||Bob Gaines, Todd Gordon, and Sara Matisse, Oct. 2012|
|Page Views:||2,057 total · 22/month|
|Shared By:||Bob Gaines on Nov 4, 2012|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, C Miller, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
This start adds some quality moves to the pitch. I'd give ZZZZZ an extra star with the direct start (four stars instead of three).
Be forewarned that the direct start does not lesson the runnouts of the original route. Even though the direct start is well-protected, you still have to climb the runnout up to ZZZZZ's original first bolt (5.7 R) and the runnout from the first to the second bolt (5.8 PG) of the original route. Above this is a critical gear placement in a short crack (.75 inch, # .5 camalot) after which you can move up and right to a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor shared by Electric Blue/Blue Diamond/Electralux -or- move left and climb the face (5.8 PG) up to a big ledge and gear anchor. This is the line of the first ascent and gives you the full value pitch, although you'll need to scramble off right (class 3) and descend slabs on the north side of the formation.