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Routes in Little Hunk - NE Face (Right)

Blue Diamond (aka Shock to the System) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blues Traveller T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cashews Will Be Eaten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Changes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Disrythmia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Electralux T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Electric Blue S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Flower Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Functional Analysis TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Incandescent S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Deal S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Potato Head T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Power Drop T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Power Failure T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Power Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rad Nad S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Smear Factor S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Team Scumbag T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
ZZZZZ T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
ZZZZZ Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, Todd Gordon, and Sara Matisse, Oct. 2012
Page Views: 1,613 total · 23/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Nov 4, 2012
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art. Details

Description

This is a 2-bolt direct start to ZZZZZ. Begin about 30 feet right of the normal start and climb up to and onto a dike (5.9), then tiptoe left to join ZZZZZ.

This start adds some quality moves to the pitch. I'd give ZZZZZ an extra star with the direct start (four stars instead of three).

Be forewarned that the direct start does not lesson the runnouts of the original route. Even though the direct start is well-protected, you still have to climb the runnout up to ZZZZZ's original first bolt (5.7 R) and the runnout from the first to the second bolt (5.8 PG) of the original route. Above this is a critical gear placement in a short crack (.75 inch, # .5 camalot) after which you can move up and right to a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor shared by Electric Blue/Blue Diamond/Electralux -or- move left and climb the face (5.8 PG) up to a big ledge and gear anchor. This is the line of the first ascent and gives you the full value pitch, although you'll need to scramble off right (class 3) and descend slabs on the north side of the formation.

Protection

4 bolts, .75 inch CD,
gear anchor small to med.

Photos

MikeP ROWCC
  5.9 PG13
MikeP ROWCC  
  5.9 PG13
Didn't know that this wasn't the right start for ZZZZZ. Nice moves on nice rock and still get the crux of ZZZZZ. The face after the first natural pro was a little spicy. The crux was well protected at the third bolt. Feb 19, 2013
Great route. It could use a new third and fourth bolt although you can sorta see what your getting yourself into when looking up at the plaque (nov88) attached to the third bolt. The fourth bolt is in even worse shape - rusted with a loose hanger. If these bolts were Replaced the route would not feel much scarier than your average j-tree face climb. Jan 14, 2017
Bob Gaines  
 
Thanks Gabriella. I've put replacing bolts 3 and 4 on my to do list. Jan 15, 2017

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