All Locations > California > Joshua Tree Natio… > Echo Rock Area > Little Hunk > Little Hunk - NE… > Little Hunk - NE Face (Right)
ZZZZZ Direct Start
Avg: 3.5 from 11 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft|
|FA:||Bob Gaines, Todd Gordon, and Sara Matisse, Oct. 2012|
|Page Views:||1,557 total · 25/month|
|Shared By:||Bob Gaines on Nov 4, 2012|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art. Details
The route Energy Crisis and the rock for 50' on either side of its are closed to climbing to protect Native American rock art in the vicinity.
DescriptionThis is a 2-bolt direct start to ZZZZZ. Begin about 30 feet right of the normal start and climb up to and onto a dike (5.9), then tiptoe left to join ZZZZZ.
This start adds some quality moves to the pitch. I'd give ZZZZZ an extra star with the direct start (four stars instead of three).
Be forewarned that the direct start does not lesson the runnouts of the original route. Even though the direct start is well-protected, you still have to climb the runnout up to ZZZZZ's original first bolt (5.7 R) and the runnout from the first to the second bolt (5.8 PG) of the original route. Above this is a critical gear placement in a short crack (.75 inch, # .5 camalot) after which you can move up and right to a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor shared by Electric Blue/Blue Diamond/Electralux -or- move left and climb the face (5.8 PG) up to a big ledge and gear anchor. This is the line of the first ascent and gives you the full value pitch, although you'll need to scramble off right (class 3) and descend slabs on the north side of the formation.