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Routes in Little Hunk - NE Face (Right)

Blue Diamond (aka Shock to the System) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blues Traveller T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cashews Will Be Eaten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Changes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Disrythmia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Electralux T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Electric Blue S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flower Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Functional Analysis TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Incandescent S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Deal S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Potato Head T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Power Drop T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Power Failure T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Power Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rad Nad S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Smear Factor S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Team Scumbag T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
ZZZZZ T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
ZZZZZ Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Randy Vogel & Bob Dominick, August 1976
Page Views: 1,014 total, 7/month
Shared By: Locker on Oct 17, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art. Details

Description

the start is pretty interesting...figure it out... I did it right off the ground no traverse as shown in Randys guide...personally for me it felt a little harder (Off route again most likely at the start...Just how I do things???...) than 5.7... whatever!!!... nice laybacking, solid holds, fun footwork... aiming at the bird doo doo, about 15 feet below it is a flake that is very likely to bust loose the very next time someone touches it... Belayer beware!!! Serious potential danger below!!! You can avoid it by moving left then getting back on route above it. The roof move is what some have said is the "Crux" move... The start was for me. The roof was just plain fun!!!

Protection

protects well with nuts and cams in the small to medium range. Build an anchor... walk off...

Photos

steverett
San Diego, CA
  5.7+
steverett   San Diego, CA
  5.7+
Did this climb from the bottom of the corner, start moves feel more like 5.8 if you don't use the big block behind you.

I went right up the vertical crack before you get to the top of the dihedral (see Sean's photo); this avoids the crappy loose rock and bird droppings. A little steep but fun moves, 5.7+ at most.

Great gear the whole way. Walked off the slab. Mar 16, 2016
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
if topping out, the walkoff to climber's right near the bottom involves downclimbing moderate but still fairly steep slab. go have a look beforehand. also, the topside anchor bolts to climber's right atop Functional Analysis have no rap rings Mar 4, 2016
David Lyons
Forest Falls, CA
David Lyons   Forest Falls, CA
Did the direct start, straight up from the floor (apparently the start of the 10b). Found it enjoyable, with intriguing "reverse-liebacking", if that makes sense. Heading straight up the vertical headwall (to the right of the guano-encrusted corner) made more sense to me, and was fun. Final little dihedral corner took a truck nut, and nice final topout moves to gain the wide ledge above we kinda neat. Fine gear all the way, smooth jams and fun positions..if done straight-on. Feb 17, 2014
Stormeh
 
Stormeh  
 
I thought this route was terrible. First off: Lots of bat/bird shit immediately left of the route. Additionally, terrible rock quality means bad pro, and I didn't feel at all comfortable tackling the steeper head wall with a microcam or nut in rotting, dark rock. Instead I cut left to the bolts to finish up on the anchors of those slab routes, which are much better (albeit harder) than Power Line. Bomb. Seriously, pass on this route. Jan 30, 2012
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
I started down low and climbed straight up. Definitely harder. I had to traverse left to avoid the death flake and ended up in the the whitewash where things turned weird and dirty. Interesting traverse led to a stiff exit move. I didn't much like this route, but my partner said he really enjoyed it. Apr 18, 2011