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Routes in Little Hunk - NE Face (Right)

Blue Diamond (aka Shock to the System) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blues Traveller T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cashews Will Be Eaten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Changes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Disrythmia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Electralux T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Electric Blue S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Flower Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Functional Analysis TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Incandescent S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Deal S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Potato Head T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Power Drop T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Power Failure T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Power Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rad Nad S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Smear Factor S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Team Scumbag T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
ZZZZZ T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
ZZZZZ Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Bob Gaines and Frank Bentwood, May, 2008
Page Views: 910 total · 7/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Jun 1, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art. Details

Description

Same start (5.8/9) as Power line and Power Drop. After about 15 feet move slightly right and climb the face (5.8) up to a horizontal crack. Above is a slightly overhanging face with 4 bolts and two 5.10+ sections.

Location

You can walk on/off via the slabs to the northwest.

Protection

CDs .3 to 1 inch. Two #00 metolious tcus (or black aliens) are very useful on the section below the first bolt.
Gear anchor: 3 to 4 inches.

Photos

Bob Gaines  
 
While there are no moves harder than 10+, the upper face is sustained, reachy, and tricky; probably 11a for the on-sight leader. High quality rock and fun moves- the upper face is bolted like a sport climb. Getting to the first bolt, however, will be more than a little scary if you don't have the right pro. Jun 1, 2008
Murf
 
Murf  
 
Didn't place any truly small gear, protected high on Power Line, and then moved a bit down and right, then up to the bolt.

Really enjoyed this route, another well protected gem by Bob. Felt there was a real crux at the 3rd bolt, took me a while to read it. Oct 20, 2008

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