Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Bob Gaines and Patty Kline, March 2011
Page Views: 4,075 total · 44/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on May 24, 2011
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art. Details

Description

Start just right of Electralux and make a height dependent move past a bolt up to a ledge, then climb a sustained slab on very high quality rock past 6 more bolts to a 2-bolt anchor (80 ft.)

Protection

7 bolts, 2-bolt anchor

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Thanks Bob, nice little addition to the area. Makes for a good warm up although maybe it was the heat....or my lack of skill but I heard some whining around the 2nd bolt just to realize it was coming from me.

One of my favorite secret areas..........never see anyone out there although there was evidence of summer chalk. As a bonus we saw a Big Horn on the formation off to the north late in the day just watching us. Aug 8, 2012
kenr  
Lots of interesting footwork. Pretty intimidating to lead if you haven't been on friction for a while.

Height-dependence of the move like five feet off the ground:
I'd say if much less than 5ft 8inch with normal reach, that move is around 10b (seemed harder than any move on two of the 10a pitches I did later that same day).
If much less than 5ft 7inch, then the move is much harder than 10b.
But maybe could do it anyway with Aid: grab the draw placed on the first bolt, or hang a couple of slings down from it to provide a foothold. Jan 28, 2013
MikeP ROWCC
  5.8
MikeP ROWCC  
  5.8
Fun climb. The start is height dependant. The rock is very slick here! Worth doing if in the area. Feb 19, 2013
RTM
  5.7
RTM  
  5.7
Great route, great water polished rock. I found it to be considerably easier than Electralux. Feb 23, 2013
Zach Veach
Zionsville, Indiana
  5.9
Zach Veach   Zionsville, Indiana
  5.9
Great climb, the start is very height dependent. Being 5'4 I had to smear my feet with a little jump to the ledge. Good holds slightly right of the 2nd and third bolts. Jan 14, 2016
I'm 5'6" and toproped this, just had to do a little committing hop to reach the holds on the first move. Failing the hop on lead would probably just mean stepping back down onto the boulder, although you'd have to be careful not to let your feet drop into the crack between the boulder and the wall. Nov 3, 2018