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Incandescent
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.5 from 86
votes
Routes in Little Hunk - NE Face (Right)
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Big Apple, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Blue Cross TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Blue Diamond T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Blues Traveler T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Cashews Will Be Eaten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Changes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Direct Current TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Disrythmia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Electralux T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Electric Blue S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Energy Crisis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flower Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Functional Analysis TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Incandescent S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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New Deal S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Police & Thieves T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Potato Head T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Power Drop T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Power Failure T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Power Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Smear Factor S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Team Scumbag T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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TVC15 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Unsolved Mystery T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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White Mischief T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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ZZZZZ T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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ZZZZZ Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 34.0277, -116.1531 |
| FA: | Bob Gaines and Patty Kline, March 2011 |
| Page Views: | 6,518 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Gaines on May 24, 2011 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Access Issue: A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art.
Details
Description
This is a bolted slab climb on excellent rock.
Scramble up to the top of the huge flakes/boulders leaning against the right side of the cliff. From the flat top on the highest boulder you can access Incandescent and Electralux. The obvious bolt for Electralux will be seen just above the boulder.
Make a height dependent move past the bolt (5.9 to 10+ depending on your height and reach) (See variation 1) onto a ledge, then climb the sustained slab (5.8) on high quality rock past 6 more bolts to a 2-bolt anchor (80 ft.)
Variation 1: If you are short, you can climb the start of Electralux, up the flake to the left (1.5-inch cam), clip the first bolt of Electralux, then traverse right on a sloping ledge to reach the second bolt on this route (Then unclip the first bolt on Electralux to reduce rope drag). This skips the height-related move by the first bolt.
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