Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Mike Beck, 1975
Page Views: 2,542 total · 14/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Mar 6, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

49 Opinions

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This route is located to the left of "Deception" and to the right of the wide chimney that splits the west face of The Manure Pile. Begin on the ledges and climb the left facing flake, then on up to the vertical crack that tops out the route. I've given this route two stars because it's ideal for the novice leader: easy to protect and mixed terrain.


standard rack


One morning I woke up to Michael Reardon soloing this route on his warm-up circuit. It was a true pleasure to have seen. In light of the fact that Randy Vogel didn't even give this route one star I was surprised to find anyone climbing it let alone Michael Reardon. I chalked it up to convenience but of course I wanted to check it out and was pleasantly surprised ...What a fun route! - Great beginner warm up for S.W. Corner or follow in Michael Reardons footsteps and solo this unappreciated campground classic! Nov 17, 2008
Josh Cameron
Josh Cameron   California
One of my first gear leads. I remember being frozen with fear at the crux: to scared to move up and to scared to downclimb. Finally, my buddy talked me through it by telling me, among other things, to trust my gear, and I topped out. When he seconded me he said all my gear was crap. Ahh, memories.

Probably a fun climb, but I was too scared to tell. Jul 17, 2011
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
A well protected and not sandbagged 5.5 in Josh. Quite fun, easy climbing. Not sure why there's a bolt on the face, though. Noticed I could have clipped it right after placing a piece. Mar 26, 2012
Meh. Worth doing if you're already in the campground. It's in Site 10. Nov 17, 2012
Lou Cerutti
Carlsbad, California
Lou Cerutti   Carlsbad, California
My partner and I did this route a few times last weekend and there is a single new looking bolt and hanger on top. I was able to back it up with two more placements for an anchor. The route may be down climbed from several areas on the formation. Over all this was a very fun and easy route for us to start off our mornings while camping at the Ryan campground.

I ended up leaving behind two petzl oval screw links and rap rings up top. Jan 29, 2014
Nick Hoffman
Toronto, Ontario
Nick Hoffman   Toronto, Ontario
This is a good warm-up climb, and great for a beginner trad leader. There're loads of great hands and feet, and tons of gear placements. Like Matt N, I've no idea why there's a bolt; there's pro 2 feet left of it.

You won't need to bring anything larger than a C4 #1 on this climb.

At the top, there's a bolt for your anchor. You can use a C4 #2 or #3 to finish the anchor, but they're not necessary because there're some good nut placements instead. Jan 1, 2016