Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Jim Thoen and Susan Hurst
Page Views: 1,014 total · 5/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Apr 20, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route is located on the right end of the west face of The Manure Pile formation. This is a fine route that I've led twice and will lead again. The crux is at the beginning and is height dependent; for me at five nine, it's around ten b/c. If you're shorter, well, life's unfair. Once over the initial pullup, the climb swings up and to the left with enjoyable climbing all the way.

Protection

Two bolts and a standard rack

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Decepticon (5.10a) climbs the smoothest section of rock left of the picnic table with Barely Crankin' (5.5) just to the left.
Decepticon (5.10a) climbs the smoothest sectio…
 0

10 Comments

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C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
Decent climb right out of the car (be mindful of nearby campers). The real name of this route is Decepticon, the name of a Transformer-type toy. See the link here -

hasbro.com/transformers/ene…

FA was probably early to mid 80's I think. Jun 8, 2004
Woody Stark
  5.10a/b
Woody Stark  
  5.10a/b
I noticed the differences in spelling between Bartlett and Vogel and assumed "Decepticon" was a typo. Jun 8, 2004
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10a
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10a
did it today with Tan. Decent climb! And at 5.8 feet tall, it goes at 5.10a......... Jan 24, 2005
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10b
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10b
Thoen and his wife were bored when they did this... Jan 28, 2006
tony grice
 
tony grice  
 
3 bolts, bolt 2 is loose, watch out. Fun route, easy TR. Nov 15, 2006
Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
Brandt Allen   Joshua Tree, Cal
For me, at 5' 91/2" the route feels like 10a; shorter folk must make one more, much harder fiction move at the first bolt to gain the edge for the left hand.
After the crux, the route goes up and right, not left, although there is a curious bolt to the left between bolts two and three.
There are three bolts on this climb. As of this date the top (third) bolt is still very loose. Jul 27, 2007
Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
Brandt Allen   Joshua Tree, Cal
The top bolt has been replaced and is good to go now. Aug 12, 2007
bsavall
 
bsavall  
 
I agree with the other post that shorter folk may have an additional hard move to get to the good hold before the first bolt. At 5'7" that first sequence took me a few tries on top rope before I finally got it. Apr 26, 2010
Jim Thoen
vista
  5.10a/b
Jim Thoen   vista
  5.10a/b
Put up in mid 80s using an old rigging axe for a hammer, all I had. Tape I used to haul it tore near the top and just missed Susan -whooo, I wasn't bored after that Adam! (Suuup man?) those were wild times. Added the third bolt in mid 90s. True name "Decepticon" after the toys our boys were playing with. Had passed it over the years and nobody wanted to work it-hence the play on words. May 5, 2011
Canon
  5.10a
Canon  
  5.10a
Cool moves at/above the first bolt. Good left foot, smear with right, reach directly overhead for two-hand crimp. Don't get suckered into the second (or third?) bolt that's way left. Gear anchor. Nov 17, 2012