Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Paul Piana, 1976
Page Views: 1,341 total · 7/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Mar 6, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

Bartlett and Vogel have different starts for this route. I started under the overhang, placed pro high and near the right edge then turned the corner. You'd better be aggressive getting out on the face. Then move straight up. I found all this a bit hair-raising until I could set higher pro. This route is sandbagged in my opinion. I know, what's new it's JT. I'd give it 5.8+. Bartlett has it starting directly off the ground to the right of the overhang. It will go, but the leader will be quite exposed to a serious fall until pro can be placed.

Protection

standard rack

Photos

tony grice
  5.7+
tony grice  
  5.7+
No R. Do it! The step around is kinda spicy. Nov 15, 2006
George Hayduke
  5.8 PG13
George Hayduke  
  5.8 PG13
Wanted to do this route ever since seeing the roof, but was too intimidated by the "R" rating. Finally I sucked it and jumped on and am glad I did. Great climb! Maybe "R ", maybe not, either way a fun route and worth the time. Watch out for loose rock on the second half. Luckily I tested a suspicious knob which broke nearly hitting my belayer. Apr 2, 2009
J W
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
J W   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
good route, didnt notice any run-outs, but i did take a variation up at about mid-height and stepped right into a crack where i could get gear rather than do the face directly above. good fun. Apr 14, 2009
Michael T
SEATTLE
5.7
Michael T   SEATTLE
5.7
Didn't feel deserving of the PG-13 rating, as long as you don't break off any of the many hollow sounding holds (It's called the "Manure Pile" for a reason?) You should be fine. Apr 16, 2017