Tom Bombadil
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 33.98248, -116.15446 |
| FA: | Paul Piana, 1976 |
| Page Views: | 2,891 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Woody Stark on Mar 6, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Bartlett and Vogel have different starts for this route. I started under the overhang, placed pro high and near the right edge then turned the corner. You'd better be aggressive getting out on the face. Then move straight up. I found all this a bit hair-raising until I could set higher pro. This route is sandbagged in my opinion. I know, what's new it's JT. I'd give it 5.8+. Bartlett has it starting directly off the ground to the right of the overhang. It will go, but the leader will be quite exposed to a serious fall until pro can be placed.



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