Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Unknown, FFA: Kevin Powell & Darrel Hensel, May 1976
Page Views: 952 total · 6/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route was the first 5.12 in the Park (Monument back then) and is a testament to the skill of the "dime-cranking masters" who freed it.

Four bolts provide excellent protection for this finger-wrecking crimpfest which lies on the north face of the free-standing pillar across the road and west of the Manure Pile proper. The crux is moving past the first bolt, and higher up the route is no more than 5.10 in difficulty. This route can be aided as well but some mandatory free-climbing (5.7) exists near the top.

A historic climb with a cool summit that's inaccessible without climbing are in this route's favor, but the moves are almost too painful to be fun. One star out of five.

Protection

4 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (all 3/8")

Photos

I've heard that Slightly ahead of our time and Leave it to Beaver were the first twelve in the monument. Which is it? Aug 26, 2004
C Miller
CA
  5.12a
C Miller   CA  
  5.12a
Just Slightly Ahead Of Our Time was the first 5.12 in the (then) Monument - perhaps the name is a tongue-in-cheek jab? Leave It To Beaver was done later and orignally rated 5.11d. Brain Death was another early 5.12 of the era. Aug 26, 2004
The Beav was originally rated 11d!!! Wow I'm light. That thing took me a bunch of tries on TR!! Aug 26, 2004
Its really, really hard for its grade. You have to get your foot really high. I mean really high! You'll see. Its hard! Jun 30, 2018