Just Slightly Ahead of Our Time
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 33.98248, -116.15446 |
| FA: | Unknown, FFA: Kevin Powell & Darrel Hensel, May 1976 |
| Page Views: | 2,299 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route was the first 5.12 in the Park, it was the Monument back then, and is a testament to the skill of the "dime-cranking masters" who freed it.
The thin crux is moving past the first bolt and higher up the route is no harder than 5.10 in difficulty. This route can be aided as well but some mandatory free-climbing (5.7) exists near the top.
A historic climb with a cool summit that's inaccessible without climbing are in this route's favor, but the moves are almost too painful to be fun.



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