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Routes in Dihedral Rock

Carlos T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coarse and Buggy T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Couldn't Wait T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Happy Happy, Joy Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hazing Incident T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
How 'bout It? T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Immaculate Conception T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rots O' Rock T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slabulous T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sowsuckle, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Thin Line (aka Limp Wristed Faggot) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: (TR) Craig Fry & Mike Lechlinski, April 1984, (Lead) Paul Borne
Page Views: 1,410 total · 8/month
Shared By: Randy on Dec 31, 2004 with updates from nathanael
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Face climbing and shallow corners (10c) lead to a particularly blank section of steep face between the 3rd and 4th bolts (12a/b). Height may be a factor in pulling the crux moves. Above, a shallow crack in a corner leads to easier moves to the top.

After the first (top rope ascent) a key knob broke off, rendering the crux moves significantly harder.

Location

This fun (but tricky) route lies about 50 feet right of Coarse and Buggy on the rounded northeast corner of Dihedral Rock. Often overlooked, this route is well worth doing if you are in the area.

Protection

4 bolts, 1 manky fixed pin; Plus: thin to 2 inches. 2 bolt anchor with rap rings on top.

Photos

Vernon Stiefel
  5.11d
Vernon Stiefel  
  5.11d
When I lead this route in November '01, I thought the 11d rating published in the guide book was fair. The dihedral section above the final bolt is very memorable and relatively easy. May 4, 2004
I got on this route and found it to be fairly crumbly and not so much fun. The crux move is a very big reach and there are not many options for the feet, so you just got to huck. The lower part is by far the 'best' part. Mar 26, 2009
Kevin Volkening
  5.12-
Kevin Volkening  
  5.12-
Coming from MT . . . this route deserves more stars. might not be a classic in J-Tree standards, but is still a classic in comparison to MT climbing! Feb 8, 2012
nathanael
Riverside, CA
 
nathanael   Riverside, CA
 
There's now another (new?) bolted route that starts just to the left of this route and diverges left higher up. The first couple bolts are within reach while climbing Sow Suckle, though not worth clipping.

Pin is still manky but held body weight. Consider slinging it close to the wall rather than clipping the eye. Oct 7, 2018

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