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> Joshua Tree NP
> Hidden Valley Area
> Rdside Rocks
> Rdside Rocks -…
> Dihedral Rock
> Dihedral Rock - E Face
The Sowsuckle
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.9 from 41
votes
Routes in Dihedral Rock - East Face
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Coarse and Buggy T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Couldn't Wait T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Happy Happy, Joy Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hazing Incident T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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How 'bout It? T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rots O' Rock T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sowsuckle, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Thin Line T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tons of Junk T A3 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01977, -116.17144 |
| FA: | (TR) Craig Fry & Mike Lechlinski, April 1984, (Lead) Paul Borne |
| Page Views: | 3,176 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Randy on Dec 31, 2004 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Face climbing and shallow corners (10c) lead to a particularly blank section of steep face between the 3rd and 4th bolts (12a/b). Height may be a factor in pulling the crux moves. Above, a shallow crack in a corner leads to easier moves to the top.
After the first (top rope ascent) a key knob broke off, rendering the crux moves significantly harder.
Location
This fun (but tricky) route lies about 50 feet right of Coarse and Buggy on the rounded northeast corner of Dihedral Rock. Often overlooked, this route is well worth doing if you are in the area.
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