Rots O' Rock
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01977, -116.17144 |
| FA: | Bill Mikus and Steve Godshall, November 1970; FFA: Scott Cosgrove, September 1988 |
| Page Views: | 1,842 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | nathanael on Oct 7, 2018 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Just right of the Coarse and Buggy dihedral is a wide overhanging face. This route ascends a steep and somewhat junky looking crack at the far left side of this wall, just a couple yards right of Coarse and Buggy.
The party we saw climb this said it was good. Vogel gives it no stars. I haven't climbed it, but wouldn't be surprised to see more people on it now that it's bolted.
The first bolt is high. There's some gear before it but it may or may not keep you off the ground. A stick clip might be advisable.



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