All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Hidden Valley Area > Rdside Rocks > Rdside Rocks -… > Dihedral Rock > Dihedral Rock - E Face

Coarse and Buggy

Name: Coarse and Buggy
Rating: 3.9

5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British

Routes in Dihedral Rock - East Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	Coarse and Buggy T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Couldn't Wait T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Happy Happy, Joy Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Hazing Incident T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	How 'bout It? T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Rots O' Rock T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Sowsuckle, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Thin Line T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Tons of Junk T A3

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Type:	Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
GPS:	34.01996, -116.1715
FA:	FA: Bill Mikus and Bob Dominick, December 1970, FFA: Spencer Lennard, February 1978
Page Views:	36,185 total · 122/month
Shared By:	Joe Collins on Jan 4, 2002 · Updates
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

This route is among many people's favorite climbs at J-Tree.

The route is located on Dihedral Rock, which is about a quarter mile west (toward the town of Joshua Tree) from Hidden Valley Campground along the main park road. The route's stunning left-facing dihedral faces the road; you can't miss it. If you are driving, you will need to park in paved pullouts either to the east (by Watanobe Wall) or west (by the Milepost) and walk roughly 150 yards.

The climb can either be started on the left by climbing easily in from the boulder or via a direct start (5.10). The stemming crux (5.11-) comes right away within a very technical stemming corner with little in the way of hands (RPs, black alien). Stem up the amazing corner to a section of good hand jams and rest as best you can. A second crux comes at the top pulling around a small roof that caps the dihedral (10+). Continue to the top of the formation where a good anchor can be set with large nuts and hand-sized cams.

Scramble down climber's left, picking your way down ledges to circle back left to the base.