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Coarse and Buggy
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.9 from 459
votes
Routes in Dihedral Rock - East Face
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Coarse and Buggy T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Couldn't Wait T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Happy Happy, Joy Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hazing Incident T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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How 'bout It? T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rots O' Rock T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Sowsuckle, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Thin Line T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tons of Junk T A3 |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | FA: Bill Mikus and Bob Dominick, December 1970, FFA: Spencer Lennard, February 1978 |
| Page Views: | 35,403 total · 125/month |
| Shared By: | Joe Collins on Jan 4, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route is among many people's favorite climbs at J-Tree.
The route is located on Dihedral Rock, which is about a quarter mile west (toward the town of Joshua Tree) from Hidden Valley Campground along the main park road. The route's stunning left-facing dihedral faces the road; you can't miss it. If you are driving, you will need to park in paved pullouts either to the east (by Watanobe Wall) or west (by the Milepost) and walk roughly 150 yards.
The climb can either be started on the left by climbing easily in from the boulder or via a direct start (5.10). The stemming crux (5.11-) comes right away within a very technical stemming corner with little in the way of hands (RPs, black alien). Stem up the amazing corner to a section of good hand jams and rest as best you can. A second crux comes at the top pulling around a small roof that caps the dihedral (10+). Continue to the top of the formation where a good anchor can be set with large nuts and hand-sized cams.
Scramble down climber's left, picking your way down ledges to circle back left to the base.
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