Coarse and Buggy
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.9 from 409 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft (24 m)|
|FA:||FA: Bill Mikus and Bob Dominick, December 1970, FFA: Spencer Lennard, February 1978|
|Page Views:||33,605 total · 130/month|
|Shared By:||Joe Collins on Jan 4, 2002 · Updates|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
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This route is among many people's favorite climbs at J-Tree and I would have to say that it's the coolest single pitch I've done at Joshua Tree.
Locate the stunning left-facing dihedral which faces the road, you can't miss it. A toprope can be set up top without too much trouble, which means the climb is likely to be swarmed by a TR-ing mob from time to time.
The climb can either be started by climbing easily in from the boulder on the left or via a direct start (5.10). The crux (5.11-) comes right away within a very technical stemming corner with little in the way of hands (RPs, black alien). Stem up the amazing corner to a section of good hand jams and rest as best you can. A second crux comes at the top pulling around a small roof that caps the dihedral (10+). Continue to the top of the formation where a good anchor can be set with large nuts and hand-sized cams.
Walk off to the right, picking your way down ledges to circle back left to the base.