Avg: 2 from 3 votes
Routes in Dihedral Rock
|Carlos T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Coarse and Buggy T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Couldn't Wait T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Happy Happy, Joy Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Hazing Incident T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|How 'bout It? T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Immaculate Conception T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Slabulous T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Sowsuckle, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Thin Line (aka Limp Wristed Faggot) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft|
|FA:||Steve Gerberding and Mark Bowling, 2000|
|Page Views:||189 total, 2/month|
|Shared By:||Russ Walling on Jan 5, 2008|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionInfo courtesy of Widefetish.com
This is a good route with cool moves low and fine example of squeeze chimney up high.
The various guidebooks (Vogel, Bartlett) have lines all over this crag, none really describing this route. The actual Couldn't Wait is rumored to start on the two bolt face to the right of the pillar, and then wanders back over to the wide. Climb the corner instead of the two bolt face.
Be wary of the fake loose block in the starting corner. You can pro below the block and the moves around it are not hard.
Our crew did the wide right side in and left side in. Pick your poison.
If you have the hips of a Thai crossdresser, you can get right inside the chimney from the get-go and stay in there. If you are more voluptuous, the constriction at the start will force you to the outside.
Descent is off the back heading South to SouthWest down some ledges and ramps.
LocationThis route lies on the wall that is climbers right and behind Coarse and Buggy, the mega classic Josh dihedral route. The start of Couldn't Wait is up off the desert floor a ways, so scramble in from climbers right along a series of ledges.
The start is either the two bolt face just right of the pillar, (lame!) or directly up the right facing corner with a possible death block hanging out of the maw. Seemed pretty solid to me, but I would not place pro behind it and expect to live in the event of a fall.