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Couldn't Wait
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2 from 4
votes
Routes in Dihedral Rock - East Face
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Coarse and Buggy T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Couldn't Wait T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Happy Happy, Joy Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hazing Incident T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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How 'bout It? T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rots O' Rock T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sowsuckle, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Thin Line T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tons of Junk T A3 |
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01977, -116.17144 |
| FA: | Steve Gerberding and Mark Bowling, 2000 |
| Page Views: | 1,281 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Russ Walling on Jan 5, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Info courtesy of Widefetish.com
This is a good route with cool moves low and fine example of squeeze chimney up high.
The various guidebooks (Vogel, Bartlett) have lines all over this crag, none really describing this route. The actual Couldn't Wait is rumored to start on the two bolt face to the right of the pillar, and then wanders back over to the wide. Climb the corner instead of the two bolt face.
Be wary of the fake loose block in the starting corner. You can pro below the block and the moves around it are not hard.
Our crew did the wide right side in and left side in. Pick your poison.
If you have the hips of a Thai crossdresser, you can get right inside the chimney from the get-go and stay in there. If you are more voluptuous, the constriction at the start will force you to the outside.
Descent is off the back heading South to SouthWest down some ledges and ramps.
Location
This route lies on the wall that is climbers right and behind Coarse and Buggy, the mega classic Josh dihedral route. The start of Couldn't Wait is up off the desert floor a ways, so scramble in from climbers right along a series of ledges.
The start is either the two bolt face just right of the pillar, (lame!) or directly up the right facing corner with a possible death block hanging out of the maw. Seemed pretty solid to me, but I would not place pro behind it and expect to live in the event of a fall.
Protection
A hand/fist sized cam to start and then a 5" cam at the top of the pillar. I used a 3/4" TCU to protect the move off the top of the pillar and then a 2" cam protects the entry move in to the chimney. The chimney itself is pretty wide, but a #6 Wild Country works well in the back. Bring a 3.5" cam for the exit moves. Anchor takes 1" to 3" cams.
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