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Routes in Dihedral Rock

Carlos T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coarse and Buggy T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Couldn't Wait T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Happy Happy, Joy Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hazing Incident T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
How 'bout It? T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Immaculate Conception T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slabulous T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sowsuckle, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Thin Line (aka Limp Wristed Faggot) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Tom Michael, Stacey Bocks, Dave Dixon & Jeff, October 1992
Page Views: 175 total, 1/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Jam the flake as it gradually widens into a liback (large cam helpful) then exit left into a scooped-out section on the south face and finish via a perfect 1 1/4" splitter in desert varnish.

This is an ideal warm-up route for it's neighbor and is a climb to seek out if wanting some practice on the dreaded 1 1/4" size. The rock is good, the moves varied and the pro more than adequate. Two stars out of five.

Location

This is the striking right-facing flake just left of Coarse and Buggy...Ren and Stimpy fans rejoice!

Protection

pro to 4"

Photos

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Tradiban  
 
Fun enough, plenty of face holds around the upper crack. Jan 7, 2015