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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Hidden Valley Area
> Rdside Rocks
> Rdside Rocks -…
> Dihedral Rock
> Dihedral Rock - E Face
Happy Happy, Joy Joy
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 1.9 from 22
votes
Routes in Dihedral Rock - East Face
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Coarse and Buggy T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Couldn't Wait T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Happy Happy, Joy Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hazing Incident T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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How 'bout It? T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rots O' Rock T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sowsuckle, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Thin Line T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tons of Junk T A3 |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01977, -116.17144 |
| FA: | Todd Gordon, Tom Michael, Stacey Bocks, Dave Dixon & Jeff, October 1992 |
| Page Views: | 1,440 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Jam the flake as it gradually widens into a liback (large cam helpful) then exit left into a scooped-out section on the south face and finish via a perfect 1 1/4" splitter in desert varnish.
This is an ideal warm-up route for it's neighbor and is a climb to seek out if wanting some practice on the dreaded 1 1/4" size. The rock is good, the moves varied and the pro more than adequate.
Location
This is the striking right-facing flake just left of Coarse and Buggy...Ren and Stimpy fans rejoice!
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