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Routes in Dairy Queen Wall - Right Side

Airy Scene T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bill's Nuts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Biological Clock T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chili Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Date Shake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dilly Bar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dipped Cone T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Double Decker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frosty Cone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hot Fudge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
I Forgot to Have Babies TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Misty Kiss T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nuts and Cherries T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Possum Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scrumdillyishus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Squirrel Attack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,174 total, 36/month
Shared By: Mike Epke on Nov 25, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route climbs the featured, vertical crack left of Hot Fudge. The climb is not overly sustained and eats up small gear primarily. The crack can be used to jam in a few places only, especially if you have bigger hands, but face holds are abundant for both hands and feet. A bit easier climb than Mr. Misty Kiss, which goes at the same level in Vogel's guidebook. Very shady climb, no matter the time of day with its NE orientation. After leading, build a belay or use the anchors above Hot Fudge to bring up the second. Enjoy this fun route with many others near the same level on DQ Wall.

Protection

Gear up to 3", but primarily little stuff - nuts and .5 camalot or smaller except for the top of the route where a #3 can be placed. 2" and 3" gear can be used to top rope or build a belay anchor if desired.
Adam Fleming
Dillon, CO
 
Adam Fleming   Dillon, CO
 
Great trad climb for those who hate cracks or don't have crack technique. Mar 6, 2017
mhagny
  5.6
mhagny  
  5.6
Surely the easiest 5.7 in the Park. More like a 5.5 - 5.6. Sep 25, 2016
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.7
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.7
The anchors on top look brand spanking new with 2 rap rings on each bolt. I would avoid the down climb. Saw another party ahead of us attempt and just resulted going back to up to rap Feb 22, 2016
kenr  
We found a single bolt to the north near the top of Misty Kiss (in January 2013). The quicklink on it was kind of small for easy pulling the rope thru. Someone had added a bigger nice rappel ring attached by a short length of webbing. We tested it on belay, then rapped off the single bolt.
This was after watching then talking with another party who was not having fun with the down-climb. Jan 28, 2013
Climb To Safety
california
  5.7
Climb To Safety   california
  5.7
top notch day at joshua tree today (12-12-12). good friends, perfect weather, no crowds. Dec 13, 2012
Jeff Scofield
Yorba Linda, CA
  5.7
Jeff Scofield   Yorba Linda, CA
  5.7
Lead this today don't know why some jerk cut off the rap bolts. The downclimb is very sketchy....As of 2-25-2012 no rap bolts above this route Feb 26, 2012
DaveGustafson
Palm Desert, CA
  5.7+
DaveGustafson   Palm Desert, CA
  5.7+
Had a great time leading this route, although I would have loved to have brought along a few smaller pieces. No one at Dairy Queen Wall on a Saturday in November? We lucked out! Nov 7, 2009
Mark L  
Essentially you can treat this as a easy very protectable very secure straight forward 5.5 bucket climb (if your taller) or a contrived 5.7 crack-only for fingers/hands and feet climb. This climb seems easier than other 5.3s in the park. Ditto on great lead for the inexperienced leader. Need thin to perfect hand sized and bigger pieces for the belay up top from what I remember. Apr 30, 2007
Obi
Portland, OR
  5.7
Obi   Portland, OR
  5.7
I agree with the others - one of the easiest 5.7's you'll find. A good route for the novice leader as it eats up gear and the moves aren't too strenous. Oct 5, 2006
Scott Edlin
boulder, co
 
Scott Edlin   boulder, co
 
steep and featured - not much jamming to be had. Apr 12, 2006
Chris Swope
Greeley, co
  5.7
Chris Swope   Greeley, co
  5.7
I found this route to be a little soft for 5.7 but I still thought it was a really fun lead. The steepness of the line made it all the more fun. Mar 15, 2006
Dustysdawg
  5.6
Dustysdawg  
  5.6
Fun route. Lots of jugs and it protects really well. This has to be the easiest 5.7 in Joshua tree. I think it is more like an easy 5.6. Build a belay rather than using the toprope anchors for the neighboring 5.9 because the area is REALLY CROWDED. Dec 31, 2004
Mike Epke
Denver, CO
  5.7
Mike Epke   Denver, CO
  5.7
I agree, this should be 2 out of 3 stars, I mistakenly marked 3 out of 3 when putting the route up. Enjoy this fun climb. Dec 7, 2003