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Routes in Dairy Queen Wall - Right Side

Airy Scene T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bill's Nuts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Biological Clock T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chili Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Date Shake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dilly Bar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dipped Cone T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Double Decker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frosty Cone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hot Fudge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
I Forgot to Have Babies TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Misty Kiss T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nuts and Cherries T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Possum Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scrumdillyishus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Squirrel Attack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Dave Evans, Kate Duke, Darrel Hensel, and Alan Bartlett - May 1986
Page Views: 896 total, 5/month
Shared By: M. Morley on May 11, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Biological Clock lies on the far right (west) end of DQ on a separate, short wall. Look for the single bolt on the upper face.

A fairly unusual route, as most of the protection is by tying off rock "plates". Start up nice 10' hand crack. This is where the fun begins. Move up and left on incut plates (some a bit hollow sounding). One solid bolt (replaced 2/02) protects the crux (5.9+) exiting moves. Getting to that bolt is a little spicey. Belay in crack and descend by walking NW to chimney/slot that will take you back to your pack.

Protection

Not much! A hand-size cam for the initial crack, and a couple of shoulder-length slings to tie off rock "plates". One solid bolt on the upper face protects crux moves. A stopper or two can be slotted between plates below the bolt. Bring a couple of cams for the belay.

Photos

Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.9- R
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.9- R
I don't know about 5.9+, there's one little friction move at the top, the rest is 5.4-5.7. I would however note the protection rating, while maybe not R (PG-13?) is worth considering. I suppose you could find something to sling inbetween getting on the face and the bolt, otherwise you run it out on fairly easy ground. Oct 8, 2007
C Miller
CA
  5.9
C Miller   CA  
  5.9
Fun little route to do if in the vicinity. Sep 6, 2004