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Routes in Dairy Queen Wall - Right Side

Airy Scene T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bill's Nuts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Biological Clock T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chili Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Date Shake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dilly Bar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dipped Cone T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Double Decker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frosty Cone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hot Fudge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
I Forgot to Have Babies TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Misty Kiss T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nuts and Cherries T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Possum Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scrumdillyishus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Squirrel Attack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Dave Wonderly & Jack Marshall, December 1986
Page Views: 1,443 total, 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 11, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This climb ascends the most obvious pocketed face on the Dairy Queen wall that is not interrupted by cracks. Climb the center of the face as pictured below. A hard crux starts the route (which felt harder than 5.9 to me) but could be avoided if you step right to start and then left after 2-3 meters of climbing. The beginning is big balance moves to a sloper and the rest is running up jugs on reasonably secure holds to the bolt anchor up top.

This route was reminiscent of Southeastern sandstone and seemed out of character for the area in general. It could be a pleasant change of pace for those wanting a break from J-tree edging and smearing.

To descend, rap off on a single rope to the ground.

Protection

Not much pro - it seemed that it was mostly consisting of slung chickenheads. If this is disconcerting, consider a top-rope. Most of the moves are secure enough to do on runout, but some are reachy and may present more difficulty for shorter climbers. Bolted anchor.

Photos

Dan Evans
Phoenix, AZ
Dan Evans   Phoenix, AZ
Climbed it today. There was new bolts and rap rings. Apr 26, 2013
Snupe
SoCak
Snupe   SoCak
Somebody chopped the anchors; see the section page for walk-off info. Nov 10, 2011
Tommy G.
Killeen, Texas
Tommy G.   Killeen, Texas
Fun route! I led it, but did not notice/find any chicken heads that would have taken a sling well.

Very moderate with big holds, but quite run out. A fall at or just before getting to the second crack would be a screamer.

No bolts a the top that I could find. Going off the back into Rock Garden Valley is bad news. Scramble down near the right end of the wall I guess? Nov 7, 2011
Canon  
Couldn't find the bolts on top. Ended up walking off toward Lost Horse Road a little pissed off. Oct 26, 2011
the photo is a lie. there is no double bolt rappel. the bolts are gone. Sep 29, 2011
Donno
Newport Beach
Donno   Newport Beach
This route's name is "A Hot Fudge" in the Vogel guides. Apr 7, 2010