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Routes in Dairy Queen Wall - Right Side

Airy Scene T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bill's Nuts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Biological Clock T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chili Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Date Shake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dilly Bar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dipped Cone T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Double Decker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frosty Cone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hot Fudge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
I Forgot to Have Babies TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Misty Kiss T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nuts and Cherries T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Possum Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scrumdillyishus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Squirrel Attack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,147 total, 6/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Mar 17, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Difficult to place protection and fairly runout. This climb may be better left as a toprope. Climb up to a double crack system that doesn't quite touch bottom. This climb is very difficult for 5.6. Anchor is set with large cams.

Protection

Nuts, small cams

Photos

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Donno
Newport Beach
Donno   Newport Beach
Just led this 10 years after backing off. Dead vertical but not hard to protect; many small cams went in. It's a little runout at the very top after a small stopper placement, but the difficulty eases off. Exciting lead for a 5.8 leader. Apr 3, 2010
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
Climbed this yesterday, and warnings should be more precise. This is 5.8, and somewhat complex even at that grade. Inexperienced leaders beware, you may find yourself dogged from delays at certain moves or gear placements and running out of strength quickly. It's by no means a bad climb though and fortunately you can always bail and finish on cracks to the right if you get stuck. :-) Apr 6, 2009