Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Dan Ahlborn & Tim Powell, April 1976
Page Views: 6,963 total · 35/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 3, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Super fun climbing up the heavily featured crack that offers all sorts of jams, face holds and protection opportunities. Gear belay and easy downclimb off the right edge of the cliff.


The obvious left-slanting crack system just right of a deep chimney/break in the center of the wall.


Gear to 3"
I thought it was a 5.7. A difficult 5.7 tho! Oct 14, 2002
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
The guidebook said this was 5.7, but I thought it was much harder than Double Cross 7+, Sail Away 8, or even Room to Shroom 9. I felt like a heel for sending a new trad leader up it as her 4th lead, but was fairly happy I was just following it at the end of the day. On the bright side, it absolutely sews up with stoppers and small to medium cams. Great route. Nov 11, 2002
Mike Epke
Denver, CO
Mike Epke   Denver, CO
Great climb on the great rock at Dairy Queen wall. The pro was tricky because the crack flares a bit. My first 5.7 crack lead in the park, definitely a route I will remember. After the climb rap to the left then TR the 5.9 face climb Hot Fudge. Enjoy. Mar 16, 2003
Peter Gram
Portland, OR
Peter Gram   Portland, OR  

Excellent quality splitter hand crack. Fun and sustained. Mar 27, 2003
Sustained 5.7 climb from start to finish. This is "Frack" climbing- a crack that has prominent face features allowing you to face climb rather than crack climb it in some or most places. It has solid small and medium nut placements all the way. HB Offsets and small hexes work perfectly. Bring some 2-3" cams for the belay or top rope set up. The rap station is two 1/2" bolts with shuts(term) rather than bolt hangers with chains. The downclimb though the chimney to the climbers right is another way to get down. But it is a downclimb not a walkoff. This route is in the shade by the noonish.

Quality rock and fun crack climbing.

Sustained. almost every move is 5.7 Sep 22, 2003
Fun route. Lots of big face holds the whole way and good protection in the crack. Maybe a 5.7, but definitely not 5.8. Double cross and White Lightning are way harder. Dec 31, 2004
Portland, OR
Obi   Portland, OR
A bit pumpy if you climb it inefficiently. Another good one for the novice leader if they don't mind a bit of a pump. Oct 5, 2006
Palm Desert, CA
DaveGustafson   Palm Desert, CA
Yet another fine example of the inconsistency of ratings at Josh. I must be a weakling with no crack climbing technique, but I sure think this was harder than some of the other 5.7 cracks I've led at Josh. I'd suggest that this route has a rating of 5.8. I wouldn't suggest this for a new leader. Nov 7, 2009
Chris D
the couch
Chris D   the couch
Climbed this fun route today. Agree that it's sustained 5.7, and harder than many 5.7 climbs in the park. If it weren't so close to vertical, it would be 5.7 without all the discussion about it being a sandbag. For comparison, I'd say that though short, this is a harder lead than Double Cross, Mental Physics, or any of the other 5.7's on DQ wall. Not much like Sail Away, but I felt about as insecure leading this route as I did on Sail Away. I am not a strong 5.8 leader (yet!).

It was fun, but not a classic. It is easy to protect with nuts. Try protecting the top of Bills Nuts before you complain about the flaring nature of this route!

I would also not call this a "splitter." When I think of splitter, I think of a crack that's a split in the rock, not a crack like this that is shallow and mildly flaring. Apr 17, 2010
5.8 for sure May 20, 2010
Dear Mr Misty Kiss,
you were my first climb outside ever, and you were hard.
Thanks. Oct 12, 2010
Felt this to be harder than cake walk. Maybe a tad harder than hands off. Not a lot of crack climbing besides the last 15 feet. I felt it protected alright but not great and all the holds were really slippery! Hand jams were my only rests... Jun 7, 2011
Definitely the hardest "5.7" lead I've ever done in J Tree; Harder than Sail Away, Breakfast of Champions, Nurn's Romp, Mental Physics, etc. Sustained and not a lot of rests. There's a single bolt with quicklink 20ft to climber's right for rappelling off the wall. Apr 16, 2012
Russ Walling
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
There's a single bolt with quicklink 20ft to climber's right for rappelling off the wall.

That is some pretty suspect advice. That "single" bolt is not for rapping off of, and the down climb takes about 3 minutes. Sep 26, 2012
Climb To Safety
Climb To Safety   california
rock was ice cold, made the climbing that much more intense with numb hands. harder than frosty cone. Dec 13, 2012
Izzy Nawfal
Redondo Beach, CA
Izzy Nawfal   Redondo Beach, CA
A fun sustained climb. I do agree that it felt more difficult than other 5.7s in the park, including Frosty Cone and Double Cross. Dec 30, 2014
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
I agree with comments above. Felt harder than Frosty Cone 5.7 to the left and Double Cross. Pumpy route with slick holds. Gear anchor up top, I used a .75, #1 and #2 C4 Feb 22, 2016
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
Either this is a 5.7+ or the other 5.7 routes on this wall are graded too hard. Fun route though. Rap using the anchors on Hot Fudge. Feb 2, 2018
Kyle Faubion
Redwood City, CA
Kyle Faubion   Redwood City, CA
The body position makes it feel like your climbing vertical wall, and the fingerlocks are killer in places and made this solid and a ton of fun to do albeit sustained. Pretty much all finger sized gear accept for the anchor. 2s and 3s for the anchor is what I used. Jan 10, 2019