Avg: 3.8 from 30 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft (24 m)|
|FA:||Herb Laeger and Rich Smith, May 1977; FFA: Mike Lechlinski, Lynn Hill and John Long, November 1979|
|Page Views:||7,136 total · 34/month|
|Shared By:||C Miller on Dec 31, 2004|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Face climbing past two bolts (5.10) leads to the base of the arch (small cams); a fixed pin used to reside there. Just above, insecure chimney/stem moves lead up the flared corner until it widens higher and starts to curve left finally opening up to accept jams.
At the crux it is possible to exit the corner and climb the outside face of the arch to bypass some moves - the disadvantage is if you fall you will slam back into the corner.
- Belay at top from bolted anchor. Rap or down-climb off to the west.
A real gem that is one of the many classic Josh routes involving some sort of funkness. Rarely done, perhaps because of it's "hidden" location, but well worth seeking out. A must-do for the grade and easily four stars out of five.
From the Real Hidden Valley parking area approach as per Loose Lady via the marked climber's trail; the climb is not visible for most of the approach as it is west-facing.
Once up at the base of Houser Buttress the climb will be obvious as a left-facing arching crack/corner system down and left from Loose Lady. A bit of easy scrambling leads down to the base.