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Hidden Arch
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.8 from 42
votes
Routes in Houser Buttress
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California Girls (aka Muffin Top) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dummy's Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hidden Arch T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ladyfingers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Loose Lady T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nasty Lady TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Puss N' Boots T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Snap on Demand T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Herb Laeger and Rich Smith, May 1977; FFA: Mike Lechlinski, Lynn Hill and John Long, November 1979 |
| Page Views: | 8,002 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Face climbing past two bolts (5.10) leads to the base of the arch (small cams); a fixed pin used to reside there. Just above, insecure chimney/stem moves lead up the flared corner until it widens higher and starts to curve left finally opening up to accept jams.
At the crux it is possible to exit the corner and climb the outside face of the arch to bypass some moves - the disadvantage is if you fall you will slam back into the corner.
- Belay at top from bolted anchor. Rap or down-climb off to the west.
A real gem that is one of the many classic Josh routes involving some sort of funkness. Rarely done, perhaps because of it's "hidden" location, but well worth seeking out. A must-do for the grade and easily four stars out of five.
Location
From the Real Hidden Valley parking area approach as per Loose Lady via the marked climber's trail; the climb is not visible for most of the approach as it is west-facing.
Once up at the base of Houser Buttress the climb will be obvious as a left-facing arching crack/corner system down and left from Loose Lady. A bit of easy scrambling leads down to the base.
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