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Routes in Houser Buttress

California Girls (aka Muffin Top) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dummy's Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hidden Arch T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ladyfingers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Loose Lady T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nasty Lady TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Puss N' Boots T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Snap on Demand T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Randy Leavitt and Mike Waugh, 1978
Page Views: 2,641 total · 14/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 13, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Fun jamming and liebacking are to be had on this route with the crux being a bulge partway up where you must jam your hands and smear your feet. At the top set an anchor just below the top and belay; to descend walk right (east) and rap from bolts atop Lucky Lady with a single rope.

Yet another great route in an area stacked with classics; done in conjunction with several of the others in the area it makes for an excellent half to all day destination. Be warned though that this area is extremely popular, so plan accordingly if your route of choice is taken.

Location

This attractive crack is located on the narrow east face of Houser Buttress and requires a bit of scrambling to reach the base. From the base of Puss N' Boots head right, turn the corner and then up boulders to an alcove at the base of the route.

Protection

Gear to 3.5"

Photos

Somewhat of an underground classic. Despite the 3 stars this one does not have much chalk on it. Great sustained movement. Apr 13, 2013
Tommy G.
Killeen, Texas
Tommy G.   Killeen, Texas
Really nice moves through most of the crack (if you can finesse it right)-- an array of crack sizes and perhaps a satisfying layback move or two. Haha, walking the plank would be crazy, Russ!!!

I got a little awkward towards the end (bad feet), but I'm sure it could be done in better style. I'd say that it earns the 3 stars. On the harder end of 5.9 IMO. Nov 12, 2012
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Yeah, this is one of those "what the f^^k?" JT cracks that keeps you thinking - burly indeed. Feb 3, 2008
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.9
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.9
Always liked this one. Instead of using the crack for your hands, you can do a walk the plank type thing in the middle of the route. Spicy! Nov 10, 2006
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10a
Hard and awkward for the grade. Apr 8, 2006
Bo Johnston
  5.9+
Bo Johnston  
  5.9+
Wow! This route is way Classic! It doesn't look like much from the ground but when you get into it, the jams are crazy cool keep you pumped for more. Feb 22, 2006
Kevin Currigan
Lakewood
 
Kevin Currigan   Lakewood
 
Starts easy with some big gear then gets into the meat of the matter with medium size cams and nuts. I think I also used the #s 9 and 10 BD hexes. Great climb; burly! Feb 16, 2004