Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Randy Leavitt and Mike Waugh, 1978
Page Views: 2,980 total · 15/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 13, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


67 Opinions

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Description

Fun jamming and lie-backing are to be had on this route with the crux a bulge partway with only smears for your feet. At the top set an anchor just below the top and belay; to descend walk right (east) and rap from bolts atop Lucky Lady with a single rope.

Yet another great route in an area stacked with classics; done in conjunction with several of the others in the area it makes for an excellent half to all day destination

* Be warned though that this area is extremely popular, so plan accordingly if your route of choice is taken.

Location

This attractive crack is located on the narrow east face of Houser Buttress and requires a bit of scrambling to reach the base. From the base of Puss N' Boots head right, turn the corner and then up boulders to an alcove at the base of the route.

Protection

Gear to 3.5 inches

Photos

Kevin Currigan
Lakewood
 
Kevin Currigan   Lakewood
 
Starts easy with some big gear then gets into the meat of the matter with medium size cams and nuts. I think I also used the #s 9 and 10 BD hexes. Great climb; burly! Feb 16, 2004
Bo Johnston
  5.9+
Bo Johnston  
  5.9+
Wow! This route is way Classic! It doesn't look like much from the ground but when you get into it, the jams are crazy cool keep you pumped for more. Feb 22, 2006
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10a
Hard and awkward for the grade. Apr 8, 2006
Russ Walling
Overlord @ FishProducts
  5.9
Russ Walling   Overlord @ FishProducts
  5.9
Always liked this one. Instead of using the crack for your hands, you can do a walk the plank type thing in the middle of the route. Spicy! Nov 10, 2006
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Yeah, this is one of those "what the f^^k?" JT cracks that keeps you thinking - burly indeed. Feb 3, 2008
Tommy G.
Killeen, Texas
Tommy G.   Killeen, Texas
Really nice moves through most of the crack (if you can finesse it right)-- an array of crack sizes and perhaps a satisfying layback move or two. Haha, walking the plank would be crazy, Russ!!!

I got a little awkward towards the end (bad feet), but I'm sure it could be done in better style. I'd say that it earns the 3 stars. On the harder end of 5.9 IMO. Nov 12, 2012
Jeremy Werlin
Cedaredge, CO
 
Jeremy Werlin   Cedaredge, CO
 
Somewhat of an underground classic. Despite the 3 stars this one does not have much chalk on it. Great sustained movement. Apr 13, 2013
Matt Hagny
  5.9-
Matt Hagny  
  5.9-
Those who think this is burly, awkward, or hard for the grade haven't climbed enough in J-tree! It's definitely not burly, and not hard for the grade (by Jtree standards -- heck, it might only be 5.8). Just requires good footwork. Dec 26, 2018