Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: (TR) Chris Miller, 1997, First lead: Paul Borne & Al Swanson, 2010
Page Views: 972 total · 7/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Dec 28, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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19 Opinions

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Description

The new J-Tree West guide gives this route two stars but I can't see why since the rock sucks. Basically the route climbs a thin slab that has numerous loose and hollow flakes for holds that might break off at any moment. I guess its worth doing if you already have a rope up, but maybe not.

Location

This route is located between Loose Lady and Puss N' Boots.

Protection

9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap

Photos

- No Photos -
Pete Muffoletto
Oakland, CA
 
Pete Muffoletto   Oakland, CA
 
Very loose exfoliating rock. Managed to onsight this route but also managed to break some holds off while doing it. I am not really sure if it meets up to the 11b grade but definitely a 10+/11-. My partner managed to pull off a hand sized thin flake on this thing so it might be wise to wear a helmet as the belayer. Not that great of a route in my opinion but worth it if you're already there.

Maybe in time as this thing sees more traffic it will clean up and lose some of those loose holds. Jun 28, 2011
Nick Sullens
Yosemite
  5.11b
Nick Sullens   Yosemite
  5.11b
I'll second the loose flakes comment. Would have been better left as a toprope, its kind of a squeeze job as a lead. Feb 10, 2012
Ben H  
Agree with Nick. Sort of squeeze job, and its bolt line is so close to Puss N Boots near the crux of Puss N Boots.

Also feels much easier than PnB, but is similarly rated. Feb 18, 2012
T. Stark
Los Angeles, CA
T. Stark   Los Angeles, CA
I liked this climb, lots of little edges. Maybe some stuff has broken off but it felt casual. Went straight up on the runout from the ninth bolt, easier but sketch for sure. Oct 28, 2012
aka Muffin Top Nov 18, 2012
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.11b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.11b
TR'd it after Loose Lady. I only noticed a few loose holds, so it must be cleaning up. That being said, it definitely felt 5.11- to me so perhaps some holds have vanished. Jan 30, 2013