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Routes in Houser Buttress

California Girls (aka Muffin Top) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dummy's Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hidden Arch T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ladyfingers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Loose Lady T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nasty Lady TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Puss N' Boots T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Snap on Demand T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bob and Yvonne Gaines, November 1998
Page Views: 1,390 total · 8/month
Shared By: Murf on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Located directly under Dummy's Delight, Ladyfingers climbs patina flakes left to right to a shared finish with it. Begin by bouldering up the left side of Lucky Lady. From the base of the buttress the route looks quite easy, and almost unappealing, as it never seems to get that high off the gully.

It is not as easy as it looks, however, and for all its positive edges, manages to require technical footwork. As expected from Gaines, a quality route plucked from plain sight.

Protection

Six bolts. Small cam to protect follower. Gear anchor from thin to #1 Camalot.

Photos

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C Miller
CA
  5.10b
C Miller   CA  
  5.10b
Good climbing and better than appearances suggest make this another worthy tick for the area. Easy descent by walking right and rapping off Lucky Lady. Two or three stars out of five. Feb 9, 2004
I love this route. something really appealing about traversing over the deep cravass on small edges. the moves are gymnastic and fun. backstepping and mantels on patina plates. dig it! Aug 6, 2005
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10a
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10a
A well protected fun route, with some traversing involved. Well worth an ascent if in the area but not 5.10b IMHO, easier I think. Oct 10, 2009
Pat C
Honolulu
 
Pat C   Honolulu
 
This route was great. Don't know why there are all the low ratings here. I thought it was like a concentrated version of loose lady. All the steep edging moves, sustained, high steps. Great route. one of my favorite leads in a long time. Dec 21, 2009

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