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Routes in Houser Buttress

California Girls (aka Muffin Top) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dummy's Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hidden Arch T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ladyfingers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Loose Lady T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nasty Lady TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Puss N' Boots T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Snap on Demand T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bob Rotert and Kelly Carignan, 1986
Page Views: 1,132 total, 6/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 13, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Another seven bolt route but this one has steeper rock and smaller holds. The crux is getting to the last bolt and if you fall from a balancy mantle before standing up expect to take a healthy fall. Bolted anchor/rap on top (shared with Loose Lady).

Great moves on this route with a little fear factor but overall it's safe. Not done nearly as much as it's neighbor to the left, but for the grade a must do Josh face climb. This climb gets sun most of the day so it's an excellent choice on those cold days, but not the best choice when warm as this climb is somewhat temperature dependant. Three stars out of five.

Location

From the Real Hidden Valley parking area a marked trail leads west to the base of Houser Buttress. Scramble up to the base and you will find this climb 15 feet right of Loose Lady on the right side of Houser Buttress.

Protection

7 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (all 3/8")

Photos

Adam Stackhouse

  5.11c
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.11c
Thought this route was terrific fun (TR) back in the day. Nov 5, 2012
Randy  
Robert's observation is right-on. I am currently working on the new guide, and have added (and in some cases subtracted) stars from a lot of routes. Puss N' Boots probably deserves 3 (out of 5). Hidden Arch definately deserves 4 out of 5; and Armageden Tired probably 2 or 3 stars (though it previously had none). As I get more feedback on routes (always welcome), or have done more of them over the years, star ratings can become more consistent. Feb 3, 2003
RTM
RTM  
I think this route should get more stars in the Vogel guide. To me it seems just as good as Loose Lady, only a little harder and a little more painful. Feb 2, 2003