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Routes in Locomotion Rock

Edam vs Gouda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Edom vs Moab T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Grain Dance TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gunks West T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hhecht T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump Back Loretta T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jumping Jehosephat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leaping Leaner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lumping Fat Jennie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slip and Slide TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Snnfchtt T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wilderness of Edom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, 1987
Page Views: 780 total, 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 22, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Follow the directions to reach Locomotion Rock and settle into the niche on its west side. At the far north end of the rock there are two offset hand cracks that go from near the ground, up and left to the left hand side of the top of the rock. Grain Dance is a TR problem between Jumping Jehosephat to the left, and Leaping Leana to the right.

Follow a rounded and slightly offset crack/seam up and left to a blank section in the face. Friction up through the crux to reach a second system, just up and right of the first. The movement is fun and will likely increase your trust in J-tree friction.

However, if you go by the 5.10b rating, it may leave you depressed, discouraged, and sandbagged. I felt that the route should have been rated 5.10d, as it was harder than about a dozen 5.10c's that I've lead at J-tree.

Protection

TR from anchors above Leaping Leana, the left-leaning crack to the right.

Photos

Ryan Kelly
work.
Ryan Kelly   work.
Caughtinside: "Probably .10c josh face, maybe .10d, and likely .11a at a lot of areas..."

So... 10b then? Nov 24, 2008
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.10c/d
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.10c/d
this is a fun face route! I (like most people) TR'ed it off the leaping leana anchors. A lead on this would be R for sure! As well as having the gear plug some holds.

Gradewise, I'd say it's definitely harder than .10b. The baseline I'd use there is Run for Your Life. Probably .10c josh face, maybe .10d, and likely .11a at a lot of areas... Apr 6, 2007
Drederek
  5.10c
Drederek  
  5.10c
I didn't think this was sandbagged much, as I've led similar routes in Leavenworth and Squamish that were much longer and rated 10c. I figured that 10b was within reason for JT, especially after doing LL at 5.6 Apr 5, 2006
Bo Johnston
  5.11a
Bo Johnston  
  5.11a
I agree with Tony. This is no 10b. In fact, I'd say 11a considering the work I had to put into it. Anyhow, it's a great bit of rock to learn hard climbing on! The first 15 feet are good 10b and the middle isn't so bad but when the crack turns to an evil seem the heat turns up. Mar 13, 2005