Avg: 2 from 20 votes
Routes in Locomotion Rock
|Edam vs Gouda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Edom vs Moab T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Grain Dance TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Gunks West T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Hhecht T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Jump Back Loretta T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Jumping Jehosephat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Leaping Leaner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Lumping Fat Jennie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Slip and Slide TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Snnfchtt T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Wilderness of Edom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Type:||TR, 50 ft|
|FA:||Bob Gaines, 1987|
|Page Views:||780 total, 4/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Mar 22, 2002|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionFollow the directions to reach Locomotion Rock and settle into the niche on its west side. At the far north end of the rock there are two offset hand cracks that go from near the ground, up and left to the left hand side of the top of the rock. Grain Dance is a TR problem between Jumping Jehosephat to the left, and Leaping Leana to the right.
Follow a rounded and slightly offset crack/seam up and left to a blank section in the face. Friction up through the crux to reach a second system, just up and right of the first. The movement is fun and will likely increase your trust in J-tree friction.
However, if you go by the 5.10b rating, it may leave you depressed, discouraged, and sandbagged. I felt that the route should have been rated 5.10d, as it was harder than about a dozen 5.10c's that I've lead at J-tree.