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> Joshua Tree NP
> Hidden Valley Area
> Real Hidden Valley
> Locomotion Rock
Grain Dance
5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.2 from 39
votes
Routes in Locomotion Rock
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Edam vs Gouda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Edom vs Moab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Grain Dance TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gunks West T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hhecht T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jump Back Loretta T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Jumping Jehosephat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Leaping Leaner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lumping Fat Jennie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slip and Slide TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Snnfchtt T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wilderness of Edom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01343, -116.16796 |
| FA: | Bob Gaines, 1987 |
| Page Views: | 1,913 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Mar 22, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
At the far left (north) end of the west face of Locomotion Rock there are two obvious, slightly left-leaning hand cracks that go from near the ground to the top of the rock. Grain Dance is a TR problem between Jumping Jehosephat (the left crack) and Leaping Leaner (the right crack).
Follow a rounded and slightly offset crack/seam up and left to a blank section in the face. Friction up through the crux to reach a second seam system, just up and right of the first. The movement is fun and will likely increase your trust in Joshua Tree friction climbing.
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