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Routes in Locomotion Rock

Edam vs Gouda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Edom vs Moab T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Grain Dance TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gunks West T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hhecht T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump Back Loretta T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jumping Jehosephat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leaping Leaner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lumping Fat Jennie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slip and Slide TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Snnfchtt T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wilderness of Edom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Description

Locomotion rock is at the far southeast end of the Real Hidden Valley, a few hundred yards south of the Hidden Tower. The crag is visible from almost anywhere from the north or west once you are on the main Real Hidden Valley loop trail.

The often-climbed routes face primarily west/southwest on the large slab-like face. Most of the routes start from the ground in a slot between a second small cliff and are thus shaded from behind by the other rock. The ground belay remains primarily shady and cool. The climbs here are a mix of Easy trad leads (5.6-5.8) and harder topropes (5.10b-5.11c) with nothing inbetween to speak of. The rock is solid and trustworthy for protection.

The popular lines are Leaping Leaner (5.6) and Jumping Jehosephat (5.7). Either of these would be a fun moderate, but may be difficult for someone who does not jam well.

Rap anchors on the top of each end of the rock will return you to the base.

Getting There

Enter the Real Hidden Valley from the standard entrance an immediately head to the right (East) on the loop trail. Skirt this until an obvious low-angle "hogback" like rock appears to your south, then scramble over on a trail to the West side of this crag.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Locomotion Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 197
Leaping Leaner
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 19
Hhecht
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Leaping Leaner
 197
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Hhecht
 19
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
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Wanted to let anyone who was thinking of getting on Jumping Jehosephat that it was a great route that starts easiy and gets harder, eventually the hand jams run out and you need to trust your feet for the last few moves, also to everyone. the rap bolts that are supposidly at the top are no longer, but escaping off is not too bad with a little scrambling, saw some old webbing strung around a rock also. For all the new trad leaders out there that need that info. Later Mar 24, 2003
Shano  
FYI - you can downclimb into the hole behind J.J. then move up the ramp and up to the top of Leaping Leana to find a nice fat set of rap rings to guide you to the bottom. Much easier than scrambling (in the dark as I once made the mistake of doing.) Feb 17, 2004
There are great anchors now on the top of Leaping Leana. Mar 13, 2005
Blitzo  
A fun route! Feels more like 5.6. Sep 22, 2006
As of 1/30/07 there is only one bolt remaining at the Leaping Leana anchors. Jan 31, 2007
There were no bolts to be found on top of J.J. as of this posting. A sling rap anchor is about 8 feet left, I suggest renewing at least one of the slings. Pro of about 4" is needed to set up a top rop anchor. Excellent short crack for learning to climb a left leaning hand crack, slightly flaring at the top. Mar 24, 2008

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