Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Charles Cole, Randy Vogel, Darryl Nakahira (1981)
Page Views: 800 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tyler Wick on Apr 3, 2011
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Face climb using a diagonal seam to gain the deep, flaring, and sustained hand crack. It is possible to climb as an OW if you stay toward the outside of the crack.

To descend, scramble to climber's left (north) into the notch where Gunks West and Lumping Fat Jennie end. There is usually a rappel station setup here from a large slung boulder. Alternatively you can scramble further left to reach the bolted rap anchors of leaping leaner.

Location

The obvious left-leaning, very flared hand crack on the right side of locomotion rock.

Protection

small to big hand size cams. BD .75-3. Extra 2-3 inch cams for the anchor.

Photos

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This is a stout .7, and not for the beginner gear climber. Short arms may prevent reaching the jams at the back of this flaring offwidth. Oct 27, 2016
BrettAtBond  
 
Climb low angle featured slab before transitioning to a deep wide crack which gradually steepens. Climbs easier than it looks due to secure jams at the back of the crack.

Good gear (0.5" to hand sized) once you've established yourself in the crack. Nov 6, 2016