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Routes in Locomotion Rock

Edam vs Gouda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Edom vs Moab T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Grain Dance TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gunks West T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hhecht T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump Back Loretta T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jumping Jehosephat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leaping Leaner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lumping Fat Jennie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slip and Slide TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Snnfchtt T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wilderness of Edom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Charles Cole, Randy Vogel, Darryl Nakahira (1981)
Page Views: 680 total, 8/month
Shared By: Tyler Wick on Apr 3, 2011
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Face climb using a diagonal seam to gain the deep, flaring, and sustained hand crack. It is possible to climb as an OW if you stay toward the outside of the crack.

To descend, scramble to climber's left (north) into the notch where Gunks West and Lumping Fat Jennie end. There is usually a rappel station setup here from a large slung boulder. Alternatively you can scramble further left to reach the bolted rap anchors of leaping leaner.

Location

The obvious left-leaning, very flared hand crack on the right side of locomotion rock.

Protection

small to big hand size cams. BD .75-3. Extra 2-3 inch cams for the anchor.

Photos

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BrettAtBond  
 
Climb low angle featured slab before transitioning to a deep wide crack which gradually steepens. Climbs easier than it looks due to secure jams at the back of the crack.

Good gear (0.5" to hand sized) once you've established yourself in the crack. Nov 6, 2016
mhagny  
This is a stout .7, and not for the beginner gear climber. Short arms may prevent reaching the jams at the back of this flaring offwidth. Oct 27, 2016