Avg: 2.4 from 190 votes
Routes in Locomotion Rock
|Edam vs Gouda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Edom vs Moab T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Grain Dance TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Gunks West T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Hhecht T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Jump Back Loretta T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Jumping Jehosephat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Leaping Leaner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Lumping Fat Jennie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Slip and Slide TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Snnfchtt T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Wilderness of Edom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 50 ft|
|FA:||Tim Powell & Dan Ahlborn, April 1977|
|Page Views:||8,171 total, 43/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Mar 22, 2002|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionFollow the directions to reach the Locomotion Rock and settle into the niche on its West side. At the far north end of the rock there are two offset hand cracks that go from near the ground, up and left to the left hand side of the top of the rock. Grain Dance is a TR problem between Jumping Jehosephat to the left, and Leaping Leana, to the right.
Move up to reach the main crack. There are a few ways to accomplish this, and the further right you start, the harder it seems. If approaching the main crack from straight up or from the right, this might have some ankle-twisting potential at 5.8+. Approach from slightly left, and keep the grade easier. The beginning of this route, in my frank opinion, made it harder than Jumping Jehosephat. Climb up to reach said crack, then follow really great jams and locks to the top of the rock. Once you are in the main crack the protection is stellar, but the offset leans just far enough over to make it a little hard to get in for some people.
There are rap anchors [replaced 2/16/01 - ed.] just above this route.