Type: Trad, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Tim Powell & Dan Ahlborn, April 1977
Page Views: 10,866 total · 45/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 22, 2002
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

Follow the directions to reach the Locomotion Rock and settle into the niche on its West side. At the far north end of the rock there are two offset hand cracks that go from near the ground, up and left to the left hand side of the top of the rock. Grain Dance is a TR problem between Jumping Jehosephat to the left, and Leaping Leana, to the right.

Move up to reach the main crack. There are a few ways to accomplish this, and the further right you start, the harder it seems. If approaching the main crack from straight up or from the right, this might have some ankle-twisting potential at 5.8+. Approach from slightly left, and keep the grade easier. The beginning of this route, in my frank opinion, made it harder than Jumping Jehosephat. Climb up to reach said crack, then follow really great jams and locks to the top of the rock. Once you are in the main crack the protection is stellar, but the offset leans just far enough over to make it a little hard to get in for some people.

Protection

This climb protects well on a set of cams. New leaders might appreciate doubles in the hand-size range.

Bolted anchor/rap (1/2" SS)

Photos