Type: Trad, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Tim Powell & Dan Ahlborn, April 1977
Page Views: 12,074 total · 44/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 22, 2002
Admins: Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest

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Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

At the far left (north) end of the west face of Locomotion Rock are two slightly left-leaning hand cracks that go from near the ground, up to the top of the rock. The left crack is Jumping Jehosephat and the right crack is Leaping Leaner, to the right.

There are a few ways to start this route. Arguably the easiest and safest way is to start in the chasm to the left of a boulder (as for Jumping Jehosephat). Go up to the top of the boulder, then traverse right, moving a bit up and down as you traverse right. Along the traverse you can place a good piece of gear with a longer sling that allows you to safely reach the main crack of Leaping Leaner. Follow the wonderful, slightly left-leaning hand crack to a stance with rappel anchors. Doing the route this way is probably 5.7.

A more difficult and direct start begins down in the lower level of the chasm. There are a few ways to accomplish this direct start, and the further right you start, the harder it seems. The easiest version of the direct start is roughly 5.8+ PG13. 

Many of the comments below pertain to the direct start, which is definitely much harder than the way initially described above.

Protection Suggest change

This climb protects well on a set of cams up to a blue Camalot. New leaders might appreciate doubles in the hand-size range.

Bolted anchor/rap (1/2" SS)

Photos

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