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Routes in Locomotion Rock

Edam vs Gouda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Edom vs Moab T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Grain Dance TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gunks West T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hhecht T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump Back Loretta T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jumping Jehosephat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leaping Leaner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lumping Fat Jennie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slip and Slide TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Snnfchtt T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wilderness of Edom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Randy Vogel, Darryl Nakahira & Charles Cole, 1981
Page Views: 546 total, 6/month
Shared By: Kyle Wills on Feb 1, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Right crack of two that make up the Prominent crack to the right of Leaping Leaner.

Start directly to the left of a large boulder in which the 10b Gunks West starts on. (good luck on that one)

The Crux is definitely the moves right off the deck. After about 9 ft of climbing you enter into a crack with just bomb-tastic hand jams.

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BrettAtBond
  5.8+
BrettAtBond  
  5.8+
Not recommended for the budding 5.8 leader or those who aren't comfortable placing gear in flared cracks.

After the first 15 (or so) feet, the pro is solid and the terrain lowers over to easy 5th.

Several options for gear anchor, hand sized or larger. Nov 6, 2016
Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
I haven't done the 10b to the right, but based on what I expect from 10b's, I think Stormeh may be spot on.
I've done weird routes in JT, but this one has been one of the bigger surprises. Dec 2, 2015
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
I don't recall the details but I would first and foremost note the standard J-tree adage: the first ten feet don't factor into the rating of many of the climbs (or something to that effect) Nov 16, 2015
Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
To people that did this route years ago, has it changed? Start was not even close to an .8 on 11/15/15. Nov 16, 2015
Stormeh  
The start is definitely harder than 5.8. I thought it was harder than any of the moves on the 10b to the right of it, for what it's worth. I also though moving from the stance below the crack was harder than 8. Feb 11, 2014