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Routes in Locomotion Rock

Edam vs Gouda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Edom vs Moab T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Grain Dance TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gunks West T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hhecht T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump Back Loretta T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jumping Jehosephat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leaping Leaner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lumping Fat Jennie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slip and Slide TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Snnfchtt T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wilderness of Edom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Tim Powell & Dan Ahlborn, April 1977
Page Views: 2,208 total, 12/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 22, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Follow the direction to reach the Locomotion Rock and settle into the niche on its West side. At the far north end of the rock there are two offset hand cracks that go from near the ground, up and left to the left hand side of the top of the rock. Jumping Jehosephat is the left-most of the two. Lock and jam up to the top of the route. The protection is mostly straight forward and good.Retreat from the top via fixed anchors.


Mostly hand-sized. Carry a standard rack of cams up to 3"


Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
fun! do the start of Grain Dance for a 5.9(ish) variation. just use long runners for the traverse left after the start. May 18, 2015
Jeff Scofield
Yorba Linda, CA
Jeff Scofield   Yorba Linda, CA
Great Climb, I didn't like the webbing I saw and the downclimb looked too complicated(I'm Lazy) so easiest thing to do is climb the boulder to the rap anchors on climbers right. Apr 26, 2012
Tucson, AZ
JMo   Tucson, AZ
Miramontes guide shows 2 bolt anchor. There is none. Slung boulder down and left Jan 2, 2012
Led this route since Leaping Leaner was taken, setup a TR with a 50ft extendo -- not a great idea. Rap from Leaping Leaner bolts -- it's easy to get to but go through the back to reach it -- it's a fairly easy 8ft crack that gets you right in the notch where Leaping Leaner terminates. Oct 11, 2011
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
Less sustained than the 5.6 to the right. The upper section is easier than it looks. Bring extra #2's to sew up the top. Mar 8, 2011
The crack gets wide and shallow with a flare at the very top of the route, hard to protect. I found a spot where I fit a BD#4 with two cams fully closed and two cams almost wide open, with that last sketch piece I pulled myself up on top to the rap bolts for LL. Mar 5, 2011
Brian Hench
Costa Mesa, CA
Brian Hench   Costa Mesa, CA
A much easier route than Leaping Leana. Fun. Only 5.7 move is one near the top. We climbed up to the chains for LL, but this might be scary unless you are tall. May 24, 2008
I felt this to be a great route. my first in J-Tree. It felt like a 7 to me, and while the top was slightly run out, it was still a safe top out. I used a BD2 as my last piece and while it wasnt bomb proof it would have held any fall i could put on it. If you are befuddled by the lack of anchors at the top, go up and to the right maybe another 5.7 move up the face, and there are some bolts. This is not good for top roping but works fine for a second. Oct 23, 2006
Aaron Williams  
the top is a tid bit run out but the belay from the top is solid because of the bucket at the top of the 5.10 you prolly dont even need a piece the retreat is a mess though Apr 2, 2005
I enjoyed this climb when I did it in 1997. don't remember it being runout, but seemed that the crack flared near the top. couldn't find "fixed anchors" so we slung a block and rapped. Apr 29, 2003
loved this climb. Hand jams are great yet run out at the end, however still good for the grade. The retreat from the top via "fixed anchors" have been removed. Yet the scramble down the chimney or escaping via off the next formation over offers some fun. If you can get to leaping leanna the anchors there will bring to the same place, enjoy! Apr 17, 2003