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Routes in The Wicked Crag

Bleeding, The S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Bow Tie S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bowsprit S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Buzzcut, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Crush the Skull S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ferns Have Feelings Too S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flaming Groovy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Inferno S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jolly Roger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mossacre S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mossacre Direct S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Scavenger S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sinister, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Techno Christ S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tiki Man S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jay Smith
Page Views: 5,662 total, 34/month
Shared By: richard magill on Apr 13, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This line is beautiful, steep, and probably the best protected route in all of Mill Creek Canyon. The bolts are only 5-6 feet apart - a rarity in Mill Creek.

Flaming Groovy climbs up the center of the big overhanging wave that forms the left side of the Wicked Crag.

The line is flanked on either side by 13s, and often has in-situ draws on it. It runs up the obvious weakness in the center of the wave.

Starts pretty easy then starts to get steep and increasingly burly.Hits a puzzling crux around the 5th bolt. Then steep stemming and jamming lead to the anchors.

Great Fun!

Protection

8 bolts to open hooks

Photos

Quite possibly the hardest route in the history of hardest routes. Nov 13, 2008
OW Poser
  5.12b
OW Poser  
  5.12b
Great rt. even better on gear. Jun 19, 2008
by the way, our fearless leader, jay smith perpetrated the first ascent of this route in the finest of style, ground up. like many of the routes in mcc, the route was previewed on the rappel, and then the leader began climbing. many thanks to jay for teaching many of us who cut our teeth putting up routes for instilling this finest of ethics upon many of us who climbed here. Oct 5, 2005