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Flaming Groovy
5.12c,
Sport, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 3.8 from 20
votes
FA: Jay Smith
Utah
> Southeast Utah
> La Sal Mountains
> Mill Creek
> Wicked Crag
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This line is beautiful, steep, and probably the best protected route in all of Mill Creek Canyon. The bolts are only 5-6 feet apart - a rarity in Mill Creek.
Flaming Groovy climbs up the center of the big overhanging wave that forms the left side of the Wicked Crag.
The line is flanked on either side by 13s, and often has in-situ draws on it. It runs up the obvious weakness in the center of the wave.
Starts pretty easy then starts to get steep and increasingly burly.Hits a puzzling crux around the 5th bolt. Then steep stemming and jamming lead to the anchors.
Great Fun!
Protection
8 bolts to open hooks
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