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Routes in The Wicked Crag

Bleeding, The S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Bow Tie S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bowsprit S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Buzzcut, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Crush the Skull S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ferns Have Feelings Too S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flaming Groovy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Inferno S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jolly Roger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mossacre S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mossacre Direct S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Scavenger S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sinister, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Techno Christ S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tiki Man S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Tom Gilje & Eric Decaria
Page Views: 3,219 total, 29/month
Shared By: Aimee Rose on Oct 17, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Tough looking start. May require a cheater stone for shorter folks.

Location

This route is the furthest one right on the wall you encounter right after you climb down the approach ladder. Some locals may tell you it's 11d, but I've heard otherwise.

Protection

6 or so bolts to anchors

Photos

ljh
ljh  
Tom and ED established this route and did in fact call it 11d.
The ground used to be a bit higher (as maybe were the ones who rated it such ;-) at the start. Sure made 11d feel a lot easier everywhere else.
Consensus: v5 to 11- to 5.10, so interpret as you will from that.
Yes, 4 bolts. 1st one is standard to stick-clip. Jan 25, 2011
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.12c PG13
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.12c PG13
way less "PG 13" than many of the other sport bolted routes at mill creek (think technochrist). if you can send the crux, then the top 5.10 runouts should be way chill. if you can't send it, you should be on something easier! :) Jul 19, 2010
Tom Gilje did the FA. I'm thinking it's 4 bolts and 12b. Nov 1, 2009
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
I've never heard this route called 11d. It has a very hard start (v5/6-ish), with precarious feet and sidepulls. After the crux, it eases quite a bit, but the bolts are quite far apart. Blowing any clip after the crux would be a bad thing.

I'm not sure about the FA, but I do know that Dean Potter soloed it years ago, and that the mags made a pretty big deal about it. Jul 4, 2009
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
Who did the F.A.??? Nov 5, 2008
I did the route. 11d is laughable. It's way harder. I wish there was one more bolt up top. It's not hard, but very entertaining. Nov 5, 2008
Aimee Rose
Bend, or
Aimee Rose   Bend, or
Nope, I tried it and it kicked my butt, so I did estimate the grade, but it certainly isn't 11d! Thanks for the apologies. Nov 5, 2008
My sincere apologies Aimee.
I have enjoyed your contributions to the site. Thanks.

I posted that comment because there are several things in your description that make it seem like you have not climbed the route.

Brad Nov 4, 2008
Aimee Rose
Bend, or
Aimee Rose   Bend, or
I did climb it. Feel free to add your opinion, as Mountain Project is a consensus website. Nov 3, 2008
If you haven't climbed the route yourself, then don't post it.

Brad Nov 3, 2008
Bryan Gilmore
New England
Bryan Gilmore   New England
Ahmmm, please stop the brutal inaccuracy. Nov 3, 2008