Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Eric Decaria & Dave Medera
Page Views: 5,606 total · 31/month
Shared By: richard magill on Apr 15, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This a great technical line with wicked thin moves. If you like difficult face climbing, you will dig this.

This line runs up the recessed vertical portion of the Wicked Crag, between the two giant overhanging features.

Starts up a slab that quickly rears up to a vertical face. Ultra thin, bouldery moves lead through the first 5 bolts to a height of about 40 feet.The thin section is well-protected and the clips are quite reasonable considering how thin the climbing is.

After the 5th bolt, the climbing eases up, but things remain dicey - 5.11 moves lead up through a 10 foot runout to the 6th bolt.Then 11-/10+ moves lead through similar runouts to the anchor. The line keeps you engaged and (in my case) pumped all the way to the anchors.

Protection

8 bolts to anchors at 70 feet

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randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
totally reminds me of superslab at the rrg. a great climb, with you all the way. thin down low. best reserved for crisp temps? Jul 19, 2010
ljh
ljh  
Details Details …
If you care to be picky about such things, the F.F.A. was Eric D.
Originally thought to be 13a and quickly down-rated after successive ascents to 12d, and again dropped to 12b after brushings and years of ascents made those razor-blade crimps as "big" as they now are! Jan 25, 2011