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Routes in The Wicked Crag

Bleeding, The S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Bow Tie S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bowsprit S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Buzzcut, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Crush the Skull S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ferns Have Feelings Too S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flaming Groovy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Inferno S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jolly Roger S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mossacre S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mossacre Direct S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Scavenger S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sinister, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Techno Christ S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tiki Man S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Eric Decaria & Dave Medera
Page Views: 5,509 total · 31/month
Shared By: richard magill on Apr 15, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This a great technical line with wicked thin moves. If you like difficult face climbing, you will dig this.

This line runs up the recessed vertical portion of the Wicked Crag, between the two giant overhanging features.

Starts up a slab that quickly rears up to a vertical face. Ultra thin, bouldery moves lead through the first 5 bolts to a height of about 40 feet.The thin section is well-protected and the clips are quite reasonable considering how thin the climbing is.

After the 5th bolt, the climbing eases up, but things remain dicey - 5.11 moves lead up through a 10 foot runout to the 6th bolt.Then 11-/10+ moves lead through similar runouts to the anchor. The line keeps you engaged and (in my case) pumped all the way to the anchors.

Protection

8 bolts to anchors at 70 feet

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randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
totally reminds me of superslab at the rrg. a great climb, with you all the way. thin down low. best reserved for crisp temps? Jul 19, 2010
ljh
ljh  
Details Details …
If you care to be picky about such things, the F.F.A. was Eric D.
Originally thought to be 13a and quickly down-rated after successive ascents to 12d, and again dropped to 12b after brushings and years of ascents made those razor-blade crimps as "big" as they now are! Jan 25, 2011

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