GPS: 38.497, -109.31 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 53,780 total · 260/month
Shared By: richard magill on Apr 20, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This crag is one of the most developed and aesthetic crags in all of Mill Creek Canyon - a beautiful, overhanging streaked wall that holds a variety of difficult routes.

The crag itself splits into three main features:(1) A steep wall that looks like a tidal wave and overhangs 20 feet or more in its steepest section.(2) A recessed portion that is pretty much vertical. (3) A giant overhanging fin that has some ultra hard looking routes on it (and some reasonable ones, too).

There are a bunch or lines here (at least a dozen), ranging from 5.11 to 5.13 and beyond.The lines vary from overhanging powerfests to thin technical face climbs. Super fun and worthy of a trip!

The bolting is decent at this crag - good for a 5.12 leader. This is not really a place where you want to count on cozy pro - there can be some sparse bolts here.

The Wicked Crag is sort of Northwest facing. It gets sun in the late afternoon, but is in the shade most of the day.

There are a dozen routes or more just across the creek that get early sun. These are easy to spot and are accessed via a nice log bridge with a handline.

I've done many of these and they are also excellent quality, although you should be prepared for some sparse bolting at times.

Getting There

Moab Desert Adventures provides a nice map - get it off their web site.You can park right at the trailhead if you can get off to the side of the road. Or down closer to the bridge if their is no room.Look for a trail (currently marked with a cairn) a couple hundred yards up the LaSal loop road from the Mill Creek bridge.

Follow the trail - going straight down leads to a poor trail into the canyon bottom.Veering off down canyon leads to a nice chain ladder directly to the crag.

17 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The Wicked Crag Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at The Wicked Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 24
Bow Tie
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 37
Ferns Have Feelings Too
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 24
Inferno
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 34
Techno Christ
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 14
Flaming Groovy
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
 7
The Sinister
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 21
Scavenger
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 14
Crush the Skull
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 11
The Buzzcut
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 10
Bowsprit
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 10
Jolly Roger
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 5
Mossacre
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 8
Tiki Man
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bow Tie
 24
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Ferns Have Feelings Too
 37
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Inferno
 24
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Techno Christ
 34
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Flaming Groovy
 14
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Sinister
 7
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 Sport
Scavenger
 21
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Crush the Skull
 14
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
The Buzzcut
 11
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Bowsprit
 10
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Jolly Roger
 10
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Mossacre
 5
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Tiki Man
 8
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Wicked Crag »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos