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Routes in The Wicked Crag

Bleeding, The S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Bow Tie S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bowsprit S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Buzzcut, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Crush the Skull S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ferns Have Feelings Too S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flaming Groovy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Inferno S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jolly Roger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mossacre S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mossacre Direct S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Scavenger S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sinister, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Techno Christ S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tiki Man S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Eric Decaria
Page Views: 2,177 total, 20/month
Shared By: Aimee Rose on Oct 17, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Tough to just past the 3rd bolt. Once you hit the undercling/sidepull crack you're good. Some locals will tell you it's 12b, but the first bolt has the name and grade etched in.

Location

this route is the second one you come to after you climb down the circus ladder. It's got a left leaning sidepull start and probably the lowest first bolt in Mill Creek.

Protection

6 bolts (or so) to anchors

Photos

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ljh
ljh  
12D is etched on the 1st bolt but the route got easier, as previously mentioned, when erosion filled in the start. Most people think its 12c after they have the moves wired, esp the first move, but there have been plenty of tantrums witness prior to the red-point chip-down. Nov 12, 2011
Bryan Gilmore
New England
Bryan Gilmore   New England
The first bolt used to be several feet higher, but the ground has actually risen under this route, hence the start is easier. That is why it's considered .12c now. Apr 17, 2009
Dan Phelps
  5.12d
Dan Phelps  
  5.12d
I did the route...felt hard for 12c, but I'd go with whatever.

To defend the grade given by aimeerose, 12d is etched in steel on the first bolt. Nov 5, 2008
Eric Odenthal
  5.12c/d
Eric Odenthal  
  5.12c/d
SCAVENGER .12c f.a. Eric Decaria Nov 2, 2008