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Elevation: 5,622 ft 1,714 m
GPS: 38.47684, -109.38133
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 240,049 total · 876/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Nov 19, 2001 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Mill Creek is a great little climbing area in close proximity to Moab. The place is special and feels untrodden even though climbers have been visiting the area for decades. If you choose to visit this little gem, please make sure to treat the area gently. That includes hiking your ass out of the canyon if you have to take a dump!

The canyon is located high in the La Sals and consists of very compact sandstone/quartzite. This lends itself to good face climbing and offers a welcome respite from both the relentless splitter cracks and the hot temperatures of the Moab area. The area is predominantly bolted, but there are trad lines and even the bolted routes often require the occasional gear placement. Bring a light rack and don't leave it on the ground if you're unsure about your climb.

It should be noted that if you are visiting Moab from out of town, Mill Creek is probably not the best destination or rest-day distraction. The area is mostly undocumented, and almost entirely established ground up. Ratings are very stiff, there are often big runouts on non-trivial climbing, and holds are rarely well-chalked and frequently adorned with sand or cobwebs. There is also very little climbing below mid 5.11. Because of the magazines, Mill Creek has a reputation for being Moab's "sport climbing" area, but this is both a disservice to Mill Creek and to climbers as well.

Getting There Suggest change

Mill Creek is located midway along the La Sal Loop Road, a scenic drive that runs from Castle Valley up through the La Sals, and back down to 191 just south of Moab. The loop road actually crosses the creek just above the Hydro Crag on an obvious bridge.

There is a paved pullout, bathroom, signed entrance, and well established, switchbacked trail into the main Mill Creek area.

The area is actually quite vast, and in keeping with the tradition of the area, it demands a willingness to explore. For that reason, there are no formal guidebooks and other very specific directions are not available here, but with the right attitude and a bit of time, there is a lot of great climbing and adventure to be had. Good luck!

71 Total Climbs

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Location: Mill Creek Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Mill Creek

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 17
Petrified Feline
Trad 4 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 47
Black Widow Arete
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 41
Going the Distance
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 7
Black Sunshine
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 47
Techno Christ
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 20
Flaming Groovy
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
 4
The Trad Warrior
Trad
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 27
Scavenger
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 16
Crush the Skull
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 13
The Buzzcut
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 12
Bowsprit
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 13
Jolly Roger
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 5
Mossacre
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 11
Tiki Man
Sport
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 4
Prosthetics
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Petrified Feline Lower Mill Creek
 17
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 4 pitches
Black Widow Arete Sunny Side
 47
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Going the Distance Other Mill Creek Areas
 41
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Black Sunshine Other Mill Creek Areas
 7
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Techno Christ Wicked Crag
 47
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Flaming Groovy Wicked Crag
 20
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Trad Warrior Lower Mill Creek
 4
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 Trad
Scavenger Wicked Crag
 27
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Crush the Skull Wicked Crag
 16
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
The Buzzcut Wicked Crag
 13
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Bowsprit Wicked Crag
 12
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Jolly Roger Wicked Crag
 13
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Mossacre Wicked Crag
 5
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Tiki Man Wicked Crag
 11
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Prosthetics Sunny Side
 4
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mill Creek »

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