Elevation: 5,622 ft
GPS: 38.477, -109.381 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 175,077 total · 764/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Nov 19, 2001 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Mill Creek is a great little climbing area in close proximity to Moab. The place is special and feels untrodden even though climbers have been visiting the area for decades. If you choose to visit this little gem, please make sure to treat the area gently. That includes hiking your ass out of the canyon if you have to take a dump!

The canyon is located high in the La Sals and consists of very compact sandstone/quartzite. This lends itself to good face climbing and offers a welcome respite from both the relentless splitter cracks and the hot temperatures of the Moab area. The area is predominantly bolted, but there are trad lines and even the bolted routes often require the occasional gear placement. Bring a light rack and don't leave it on the ground if you're unsure about your climb.

It should be noted that if you are visiting Moab from out of town, Mill Creek is probably not the best destination or rest-day distraction. The area is mostly undocumented, and almost entirely established ground up. Ratings are very stiff, there are often big runouts on non-trivial climbing, and holds are rarely well-chalked and frequently adorned with sand or cobwebs. There is also very little climbing below mid 5.11. Because of the magazines, Mill Creek has a reputation for being Moab's "sport climbing" area, but this is both a disservice to Mill Creek and to climbers as well.

Getting There

Mill Creek is located midway along the La Sal Loop Road, a scenic drive that runs from Castle Valley up through the La Sals, and back down to 191 just south of Moab. The loop road actually crosses the creek just above the Hydro Crag on an obvious bridge.

There is a paved pullout, bathroom, signed entrance, and well established, switchbacked trail into the main Mill Creek area.

The area is actually quite vast, and in keeping with the tradition of the area, it demands a willingness to explore. For that reason, there are no formal guidebooks and other very specific directions are not available here, but with the right attitude and a bit of time, there is a lot of great climbing and adventure to be had. Good luck!

57 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mill Creek

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 68
Magic Carpet Ride
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 54
Black Hearted Woman
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 48
Grateful He's Dead
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 34
Black Widow Arete
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 30
Going the Distance
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 34
Ferns Have Feelings Too
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 5
Black Sunshine
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 31
Techno Christ
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 14
Flaming Groovy
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 19
Scavenger
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 12
Crush the Skull
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 9
The Buzzcut
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 7
Jolly Roger
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
Mossacre
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 8
Tiki Man
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Magic Carpet Ride Sunny Side
 68
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Black Hearted Woman Sunny Side
 54
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Grateful He's Dead Sunny Side
 48
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Sport
Black Widow Arete Sunny Side
 34
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Going the Distance Other Mill Creek Areas
 30
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Ferns Have Feelings Too Wicked Crag
 34
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Black Sunshine Other Mill Creek Areas
 5
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Techno Christ Wicked Crag
 31
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Flaming Groovy Wicked Crag
 14
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Scavenger Wicked Crag
 19
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Crush the Skull Wicked Crag
 12
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
The Buzzcut Wicked Crag
 9
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Jolly Roger Wicked Crag
 7
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Mossacre Wicked Crag
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Tiki Man Wicked Crag
 8
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mill Creek »

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